Nearly Naledi

Nearly Naledi

nalediToday’s flowery announcement of Homo naledi probably exaggerates a truly outstanding discovery, thereby diminishing its import. Alas, anthropologists at it, again!

Homo naledi is undoubtedly a new species of early man, and that’s exciting enough, isn’t it? We’re pushing around 20 species, now, of early men and I’ve predicted for some time that number will probably never stop increasing, at least until we start hunting for fossils on Titan.

We know that our epoch of planet earth is one of quickly diminishing species, and that in the ages of rapidly increasingly species, there were dozens of apes, maybe hundreds of early primates. Why shouldn’t there be lots of types of early men?

The story of Homo naledi is exciting for two reasons in particular:

First, it’s a collection of fossils representing at least 15 individuals. We’ve never discovered such a single collection of early men species before.

Second, the creature has appendages – arms, legs and especially hands – that are much more similar to our own than any other early creatures found with a similarly small brain size.

There are other reasons the discovery is exciting: it was in the Sterkfontein area of South Africa, which post-apartheid has received the attention it’s deserved for decades and is year to year showing its exceptional worth.

The leader of the expedition is Lee Berger, an American resident in South Africa for most of his career. Another lead member of the team is one of my personal anthropological heroes (for his normally balanced approach to the science that he’s somewhat compromised in this case) John Hawks of the University of Wisconsin.

Unlike discoveries made by some of the find’s most vocal critics (Tim White of Ardi, in particular) the analysis of Homo naledi has been open and transparent since its find nearly two years ago.

In other words, and unlike Ardi’s find and numerous others, what was known was published remarkably soon after it was discovered. Today’s announcement is the summary of all that analysis, and – what I consider somewhat tentative – the age of the discovery.

Today Berger claimed that the cave site was 2-2.5 million years old.

If that also holds true of the fossils themselves, it’s astounding. It would mean the hominid line moves even further into the past, overlapping more and more species of men-like creatures that were not hominin, like the australopithecine.

It’s not astounding conceptually, because it’s what many scientists and I’ve believed all along, but it would be evidentially astounding.

And this is where two fights really begin. Disregard White’s pooh-poohing of the typing of the species, because that old battle of what species is what is really becoming an old man’s game. The real fight is over the age of the fossils.

Most early fossils are pretty easily dated. The unique structure and composition of this cave, however, makes easy dating impossible.

If the fossils are as old as the cave itself, it predates early human and that’s very exciting. The finders are also suggesting something else: burial, something also presumed to be utterly human.

It’s nearly impossible for us laymen to speculate on the actual age of the fossils, because that’s deep and intricate science.

But we can speculate upon the extent to which the situation seems to be a burial.

The creatures had very small brains and no other creatures anywhere near that brain size have been found in situations that suggest burial.

If burial is a human characteristic, and if this was a burial situation, does that mean that this was a more direct ancestor than any found this primitive before?

I don’t think so. The 15 individuals were mostly young people, many very young. Only one old individual is among the discovery.

Certainly in primitive situations more young die than old, perhaps many more young, so that would be consistent with the find. But 14:1?

Berger insists there is nothing evidential to suggest predation or warfare, because there aren’t fossilized wounds. But what about suffocation or a sudden methane blow?

So by process of elimination that didn’t consider my qualifications above, the current scientists – including my usually reluctant Hawks – have decided this was an early human burial site.

I don’t think so. I’m still thinking about why I don’t think so, but it strikes me as the exaggeration of an otherwise beautiful paleontological discovery, diverting interest and ergo science from deeper analysis of what we know, to cosmological speculation of what we’ll never know.

Ah, anthropology today.

$ Means Everything

$ Means Everything

Ramaphosa&ZumaCyril Ramaphosa is not Donald Trump but they share something loved by their electorates: lots of personal wealth.

Therefore, each is claiming, they are not beholden to special interests.

Ramaphosa is South Africa’s Deputy President, erudite like Brush, soft spoken like Carson, business accomplished like Romney, and filthy rich like Trump. And the electorate seems to value the wealth above all else.

South Africa is nearing a leadership crisis. The terms of its current president, Jacob Zuma, are slowly and miserably coming to an end, but not quickly enough for South Africans.

Zuma has mounted one scandal after another, and is so plagued by corruption and coercion that he no longer tries to hide it.

His most transparent scandal is the $24 million taxpayer dollars spent building Nkandla, a personal residence in Kwa-Zulu with taxpayer money. Every day that Parliament opens, MPs shout, “Pay back the money!”

He won’t.

So the issue is currently in court, along with other litigation against him for misuse of educational funds, his son’s Playboy antics with yachts and Porsches including killing a taxi cab passenger that he ran into, and horrible neglect of the country’s deteriorating labor union situation, once an essential ingredient of ANC power.

As the second president to follow the saint, Nelson Mandela, he was a great step-down from the quixotic and often enatic Thabo Mbeki, whose legacy is mostly based on his certainty that the AIDS virus was easily washed away by showering after sex.

Ramaphosa might change all this. He has a real shot at following Zuma. He’s as much a part of the inner core of ANC rebels as Mandela, Mbeki and Zuma, which still today seems to be an essential credential for becoming the new South Africa’s Head of State.

It’s all very similar, in fact, to the first several presidents of our own Republic, revolutionary heroes.

But there are real outside contenders developing because of Zuma’s absolute craziness. In steps Ramaphosa out of the business world, where he’s been quietly earning billions.

Frankly I don’t think Zuma’s problem is that he’s beholden to special interests, but the electorate absolutely thinks otherwise.

And they see Ramaphosa the same way so many Americans see Donald Trump, freed from the outside sources of wealth that are so necessary for winning an election, today.

I find this fascinating. In both places wealth creation is not yet presumed evil in itself, even when it can be demonstrated that often that creation is at the expense of the poorest.

Rather, it’s the “dream” that has replaced the dream of freedom: Freedom of tyranny is no longer as important as freedom from your creditors.

I see it as the same thing, really, but the intellectual exercise of equating the two seems beyond the capacity of the 10-second sound bite consumer.

So if you believe this, then you might as well believe that someone who is truly freed from the creditors that broker elections and governance might be a fair bloke after all.

Forget about such incidental things as poverty, disease, infrastructure and the Syrian War. Look at that bank statement!

Get More, Obviously

Get More, Obviously

cornfieldbusiaKenya will end all restrictions on genetically modified agricultural seed, setting the stage for the largest production of GMO crops in Africa.

According to the country’s vice president, William Ruto, the end of the partial ban on a variety of GMO seed will “maximise agricultural production, improve health services, conserve the environment, and basically improve the living standards of our people.”

The back-and-forth suspensions of GMO seeds throughout sub-Saharan Africa this decade reached a turning point two years ago when Monsanto agreed to unlimited free use of its Monsanto 810 by sub-Saharan African countries, currently being distributed by the Bill Gates Foundation.

The drought resistant corn embodies the entire debate over GMO. While there is no doubt higher yields in stressed environments are produced when Mon810 is used, both bug and virus diseases seem to develop rapidly and powerfully against it.

As a result farmers using the seed also must use more pesticide.

The debate is whether this is because the GMO maize itself somehow nurtures super disease, whether it is simply more susceptible because it’s a relatively new genetic strain, or even whether it’s simply climate change.

The third possibility remains plausible because statistics gathering in Africa remains poor. While there are reasonable statistics to prove that additional pesticides are required for the use of GMO crops, there are not good numbers on what climate change is doing to traditional crops.

No matter the cause, new and tougher ways to suppress bugs and viruses is required whenever a farmer begins using Mon810.

South Africa has discovered that planting every fifth or sixth row of corn with non-GMO crops considerably reduces the need for added pesticide on the entire field.

But that’s an expensive proposition, especially for Kenya.

The net financial payoff, however, remains positive in both South Africa and Kenya. The question is what is the payoff to the overall environment and this question is a much longer term consideration than growing enough food next year for the local population.

I’m no scientist, and I remain very skeptical about altering genes for agriculture or medicine. But in the absence of any similarly efficient alternative for food production, it seems terribly crass to argue against the use of GMO in Africa.

Forming The World Order

Forming The World Order

bashiratsummitOne of the most difficult things for anyone or any thing to do is cede control … to give away your authority to someone or something else. South Africa did that, today, and the United States in an identical situation in March refused to.

In my estimation, this makes South Africa more modern, more moral and presents a future more promising than the U.S. The world is becoming increasingly interconnected and interdependent upon every part of itself.

A global society with ultimate authorities will some day be an absolute certainty. The societies which embrace this future and now work towards it will be the movers and shakers in it.

Those who refuse may decay.

Omar al-Bashir, the dictatorial leader of The Sudan, was in South Africa earlier today attending the African Union summit in South Africa. A court ordered his arrest on an indictment from The World Court for crimes against humanity, because South Africa is a signatory to the World Court Treaty.

But minutes before the order was issued, Bashir jetted out of the country.

Bashir was in New York in March for the opening session of the United Nations. Although numerous organizations and individuals petitioned various U.S. courts to have him arrested, no court issued a warrant because the United States is not a signatory to the World Court treaty.

So he stepped onto a world stage and addressed the opening as all World leaders are allowed to do. He legitimized his ruthless rule. Obama could have cooperated with the World Court, even without a formal treaty, but he elected not to.

The situation in South Africa was not without controversy. Before The Court ordered his arrest, it ordered that he not leave the country while it deliberated the case.

The current government of South Africa headed by President Jacob Zuma was caught off guard, as it has continually been throughout Zuma’s troubled reign.

Having little choice but to play with the court that, in fact, has kept Zuma somewhat immune to the ramifications of his scandals, the South African government aruged that Bashir was technically not in South Africa, but in the nether world of the Africa Unity Summit, and therefore South African laws didn’t apply.

The Court adjourned for an hour at noon South African time after a morning of deliberation. In that hour Bashir was sped away from the summit in a black limo to a nearby South African airbase, where his plane’s engines were running.

He leaves behind him another Zuma scandal: Zuma heeded the call by the Court to deliberate the question, but essentially just ignored the earlier order to keep Bashir in the country until a decision was reached.

Bashir is under indictment by The World Court for crimes against humanity mostly in Dafar.

On Friday, the South African government urgently appealed to the court in The Hague to rescind their arrest warrant while Bashir attended the African summit.

Saturday, The World Court refused and a local South African court then ordered Bashir to remain in the country while it deliberated on numerous motions from South African citizens.

It’s not uncommon for Heads of State, including George Bush, to avoid international travel because of fear of being arrested in a foreign country.

Bush and Cheney avoided travel to Canada and Switzerland shortly after the end of the Bush presidency because of numerous lawsuits filed against them for the fraudulent war in Iraq.

Bashir has avoided almost all travel since being indicted, this because the majority of the world subscribes to the World Court. In March, however, he traveled to New York to address the opening session of the United Nations, having received assurances from the Obama administration that he would not be arrested.

The U.S. is not a signatory to the World Court convention, as virtually every African country is. Moreover, the Obama administration believes that peace in South Sudan is critical and dependent upon Bashir’s cooperation.

At the time, The World Court, which is a child of the United Nations but technically no longer linked to it, requested the UN to arrest Bashir. Ban ki-moon declined, answering that he lacked such authority.

It was a terrible travesty of human rights that Obama and Ban ki-Moon allowed the ruthless dictator to address the world assembly.

It’s arguably a greater travesty that President Zuma picks and chooses which court orders he will obey at home, but the overall situation and outcome in my estimation puts South Africa as a whole in a much more moral situation than the U.S.

Accepting authority is never easy. But without a world authority in the near future there will be no authority for anyone.

Reckless & Barbaric

Reckless & Barbaric

abjectstupidityThe young American killed yesterday by a lion in South Africa was as irresponsible as the lion park she was visiting.

Fatalities and serious injuries to visitors to these improperly named “parks” is exponentially greater than in the real wildernesses of Africa. I see these obscene facilities as modern gladiator stadiums built specifically to create the mauling of humans.

The yet-to-be-named 22-year old was in a sedan car in the Gauteng Lion Park just outside Johannesburg. (At the time of this writing, the website for this very popular facility was crashing or was taken down. Its address is http://www.lion-park.com/.)

The park places signs throughout the driveways telling visitors to keep their windows closed. This woman was photographing the lion through her opened window when she was attacked.

The Gauteng Lion Park is one of Johannesburg’s most popular attractions. In fact “open zoos” are among South Africa’s most popular attractions countrywide. The one just outside Johannesburg when last reported had around 80 lions. The next largest park of this kind is in Port Elizabeth.

The density of predators in these parks is between ten and one hundred times the natural density of predators found in the wild. It’s darkly, hopelessly laughable that people visit these places, take photographs, then claim they’ve seen wild animals in Africa.

Last year 60 Minutes did a fabulous expose on this place. Shadowing one of the human keepers, the investigation revealed not only the inhumane nature of the park from the animal’s point of view, but that the park was breeding lions for “canned hunting.”

Canned Hunting is one of the most barbaric attractions of South Africa (and Texas, by the way). Big, naturally wild animals are raised from birth and tamed, then released to be shot by idiots who pay to do so.

Admittedly, I sometimes wonder even on one of my real safaris into Africa’s real wildernesses how visitors lack any respect for the vagaries and exigencies and chances of the wild.

Less than a year ago I was in the crater when through my binocs I saw a car changing a flat tire … quite normal, by the way. But it was right in front of a pride of lions. And hyaenas! And they were eating a kill!

Not only were the guides changing the flat endangering themselves, but they seemed from the photo I took to have completely neglected their clients, who were wandering about as well!

There were multiple ways they could have changed the tire without exposing everyone and themselves to danger, beginning with something simple like moving a car between the lions and the car… or, hey here’s a thought: call the rangers!

These two situations are perfect examples of the reckless and feckless attitude so many people have to the wild.

Large animals can be tamed, to be sure. But they will never earn a degree from Final Touch. Their normal behavior, like an elephant making a turn, can be deadly.

But more to the point, wild animals can be tamed to a point, but that point is never a safe one. Hollywood may judge the risk worthwhile. Circuses are more controversial.

But really wild animals like lions make no sense on our planet except when they’re wild. Altering their behavior is dangerous.

In the crater, where far too many people ride around in cars pretending to be in the African wilderness, a transition occurred more than a half century ago where the animals became much less fearful of people. That’s good … for tourism, but bad … for wild animals.

Degrees of tameness can now be seen throughout all of Africa’s wilds. I personally am most frightened of those areas where the tameness is greatest, like the crater. That’s where the unpredictability of wild is most frequently tempted by voyeurs of the wild.

In South Africa today there are more lions in these private parks than in South Africa’s excellent true protected wildernesses.

And yet, if you believe TripAdvisor, these are the places to be!

For idiots. Animal haters. Voyeurs. And scam-med travelers.

You Say Africa’s Corrupt?!

You Say Africa’s Corrupt?!

fifa_500Was South Africa the first African country to host the World Cup because it was Africa’s richest and corruptible?

South Africa was awarded the 2010 World Cup after a surprising vote in 2006 by FIFA and strong support by the then FIFA vice president Jack Warner.

The U.S. indictment Tuesday alleges that two South African co-conspirators (#15 and #16) handed Warner a briefcase of cash composed of multiple $10,000 stacks and separately connived with FIFA officials in Switzerland to divert $10 million allocated to helping South Africa prepare for the match to Warner’s personal control.

The two illegal acts of bribery and corruption, according to the U.S. indictment, secured Warner’s support and vote.

Warner later resigned from FIFA, although he kept his positions at the top of the football mafia in his native Trinidad and Tobago. In the last several years he’s been arraigned several times for various corruption charges.

He had been in jail in Trinidad earlier this week, faces more indictments from the current FBI probe, but had been released by a Trinidad judge for “exhaustion.” Hours after his release from “exhaustion” he held a raucous rally of political supporters which included the 72-year old in feverish dancing:

“’If I have been thieving FIFA money for 30 years, who give me the money? How come he is not charged?’ the 72-year-old declared.

He then charged the U.S. FBI with “only going after Third World Countries.”

It’s much easier to contain and arraign someone who is in Zurich than Trinidad.

South African officials, of course, have denied all the allegations. But the leading contenders for co-conspirator #15 or #16, including Danny Jordaan, a newly elected mayor and high-ranking ANC official, have been stone mum.

Like Brazil, South Africa’s World Cup experience was a disastrous financial experience. Like Brazil, extralegal procedures to displace people and condemn needed land and space were only controversial outside the country itself.

The cup is supposed to be played soon in Qatar, a country in a desert where summer temperatures are above 120 F. Qatar is richer, per capita, than either Brazil or South Africa, but the “slave labor” being used to build its massive stadiums for the cup have been reported now for quite a time.

The scandals surrounding FIFA officials are hardly new, either. FIFA officials regularly go in and out of jail. The organization is run like a fiefdom the same way the Olympic Committee is run, but at least until now no one cared.

This is because the prestige of the World Cup, like the Olympics, is extraordinarily huge. The outcome, the Games, trump everything that runs up to them.

The ends justify the means.

South Africa is terribly implicated although no South Africa has been yet indicted. But the story coming out about FIFA is less about South Africa than FIFA, and basically that South Africa like Brazil finally achieved enough wealth to play with the big guys.

And the Big Guys are not African.

I’ve argued for years that the charge that Africa is corrupt is a racist one, because while certainly true at some level, the scale of corruption in Africa can’t begin to reach the scale of corruption in the United States and other western countries.

Whether it’s another Dennis Haestert, Bernie Maddow, Michael Milken, or dozens if not thousands of lobbyists and PACS and corporate “deals” corruption is not an African disease, it’s an American and western disease.

And now maybe that the western world’s most cherished “not-for-profit” organization is being unmasked for what it really is, maybe now the world will admit what a bum rap Africa’s been given.

From Baltimore to Joburg

From Baltimore to Joburg

balt2joburgCivil violence in Baltimore, Beijing, Nairobi, Cairo and Johannesburg reflects societies coming apart.

One thing is certain: “We will bring order. We will bring calm. We will bring peace,” the (black) Baltimore mayor vowed last night as national guard troops entered her city.

Then, one of two things happens afterwards: a more democratic Tunisia, South Africa and Kenya; or a more autocratic China and Egypt.

Civil violence is quite distinct from war. It happens from within. Brothers are pitted against brothers. In the beginning new ideas link across disparate social communities. That’s the case today when we find Baltimore mayor, Stephanie Rawlings-Blake, saying things that her opponents consider collaborative with the protestors.

It’s the reason that the World Court indicted the current President of Kenya for fomenting crimes against humanity. It’s the reason Hosni Mubarak lingers in a jail guarded by the men he brought to power.

Civil violence reveals fissures and inconsistencies in social systems that are difficult to reconcile .. even by its leaders. It’s about human rights violations, not border disputes. Groups like ISIS will use civil violence to then start geopolitical warfare, but in the beginning it’s an internal conflict not an external one.

It often devolves into whether “the end justifies the means.” But it’s rarely so clear, much murkier: Is it fair that Uhuru Kenyatta paid youth under-the-table to fight a rival tribe in order to preserve his beneficence that now seems to be very positive in Kenya?

Peace at all costs?

Yes, so far anyway, eventually that’s human history. For the champions of human rights who fight in the streets, it’s a battle against the clock. They have limited time to bend society to their ideas until they’re crushed.

Civil violence is growing around the world, just as it did many times previously in human history. The hours on the clock are growing longer.

We’re entering a period of enlightened conflict, perhaps because of videos transmitted in nanoseconds by watches.

“Thank God for cell phone videos because the truth will come out,” the lawyer for the Freddie Gray family said last night.

Unlike in the past, more of us see and hear the same thing. The media can’t distort it as easily as in the past.

In this new and more volatile world, those of us in privileged situations should take stock:

“The infidels have so much to lose, they can be afraid of even losing their happiness! We,” he said, lifting his eyes to the sky as his mind’s eyes pulsated with a black sun, “We have nothing, so we fear no loss.”

That short excerpt is from my book, Chasm Gorge. It’s the world’s greatest terrorist explaining why he fights to the death.

The difference between those who have less and those who have more will not last in the new world. How much must be given away by us privileged is being determined by the battles being fought right now, from Baltimore to Johannesburg.

There’s no question a redistribution will occur. The question is how will it occur? Democratically or ruthlessly?

You’re Not Like Me

You’re Not Like Me

xenophobicviolence“These are dangerous times. Everyone in the city is scared. The sun is about to go down and we fear that there will be a lot more killing and looting tonight. We don’t know what will happen tomorrow.”

The above was written last week by a Congolese in Durban, South Africa, following violent clashes between local Zulu and what the Zulu king called “lice,” the many foreign African residents in the area.

Although actual protests and violence have ebbed, masses of immigrants are leaving South Africa for fear it will start up, again.

“Leave or die,” is how an African immigrant recently characterized his situation.

President Jacob Zuma canceled a foreign trip to “mourn” the victims, the numbers of which will not be published by police for some time but which we can presume are in the thousands.

It is, of course, not just happening in South Africa. Horribly violent youth have run many of Kenya’s long-time Somali residents out of Eastleigh, Nairobi, ostensibly in retribution for al-Shabaab’s terrorists attacks on the country but in reality because the community had engineered such prosperity in Kenya’s highly competitive lower economies.

Anti-immigrant sentiment has been building around the world for several years. Conservative political parties with expressed anti-immigrant sentiment have emerged all over Europe, especially in Greece, France, Denmark and Sweden.

Xenophobia is front and center in American politics, today, ever since an extraordinarily rational “Dream Act” that would have dealt with illegal immigration was blocked by Congressional xenophobes.

“Xenophobia cannot be divorced from the economic life of the masses,” writes a spokesman for the Socialist Party of Great Britain, which is hardly news yet seems to be forgotten each time mass protests like these die down.

South Africa is filled with extremely articulate and imaginative social thinkers, and there is a growing consensus among them that the South African violence represents the beginning of something unordinary and lasting.

“South Africa is a weak link in the global capitalist chain. If the chain breaks, it will do so at its weakest links,” writes Jane Duncan, a professor at the University of Johannesburg.

She cites the Occupy Movement and the Arab Spring as run-ups to the current xenophobic violence throughout the world. Those movements based on economy and democracy don’t have the self-sustaining power that xenophobia based on race, has.

So if Prof. Duncan is right, and the mendacious racism inherent in us all eventually breaks capitalism, then what?

The “then what?” is the reason it won’t happen, because there is yet no alternative to global capitalism.

“There is … no social force that has the capacity to subordinate capital to society,” another great South African thinker, Richard Pithouse wrote yesterday. He concludes:

“If we are to avoid a future that is exclusionary and violent… we are going to have to build new social forces.”

Anybody out there have a suggestion?

Snow Ball from Hell

Snow Ball from Hell

snowballMy nine weeks in Africa convinces me the most pressing issue of our time is climate change.

I’ve returned from a series of safaris with some of the most memorable moments of game viewing in my career. I met some incredibly wonderful new people and reacquainted myself with a number of dear clients.

From South Africa through Botswana into Tanzania, new political and conservation initiatives gave me optimism, but unfortunately the common theme dominating every single day was how destructive climate change has become:

To the animals, to the veld and most of all, to the people.

Of course negligence, corruption, bad politics and dysfunctional science also provide plenty of negative influences as well, but there is nothing – nothing more threatening to Africa’s future than our unprecedented global warming.

Cape Town normally has a mean high temperature in March of 77̊F. On March 3, while I was in Johannesburg, the temperature reached 108̊F, a whopping ten degrees higher than ever seen there before.

An alarming two percent of the precious Cape Flora Zone, the most unique and smallest of the six such zones in the world, was lost to fires.

We toured the wine country on highways with fires on both sides.

In Botswana a quarter of the unique Okavango Delta was lost this year to drought and fire. This is unheard of.

I arrived in Tanzania at the end of a six week drought. That drought came after record rainfalls in December, amounts that exceeded half the entire season’s normal precipitation in places like Ndutu.

The drought ended with devastating downpours. The Serengeti Super Storm that we experienced just a few days ago may be unprecedented.

The flip-flopping of extreme climate: droughts to floods to droughts, decimates animal populations as we discovered this year with the wildebeest. It endangers and enrages animals, as we discovered with several elephant events.

But most significantly, it’s destroying people’s lives.

Though my second safari saw a Tanzania as pretty and green and lush as I have ever seen, the withered and stunted crops that had survived a traditional schedule of planting at the beginning of the rainy season had already succumbed to the drought.

Not just agriculture is disrupted. In my own industry, tourism, extreme weather and unpredictable flip-flopping of season terribly disrupts property management that has until now depended so much on predictable seasons.

Building and renovations – particularly on the exteriors of lodges and camps – have traditionally been done at the end of the rainy season, which coincides with a lingering low tourist season: May and early June.

Landscaping, tempering of murramed walkways and gravel paths, sealing of tarred thatching … these depend on a wetter environment that have traditionally occurred at the beginning of the rainy season.

But now it’s anyone’s guess as to when it will rain or not. And when it does, it’s so severe that traditional construction methods are jeopardized.

You can’t understand global warming by any one moment. Senator Inhofe’s foolery on the Senate floor challenging the veracity of global warming by heaving a snowball is the basest of stupidity.

The main result and symptom of global warming is radical changes in climate. Yes, the world is slowly warming and that has many long term effects.

But short term devastation is not the result of warming, but of extremes: more violent weather, more cold then more hot, more drought then more floods, following on the heals of one another quicker and quicker.

That’s the horror I witnessed this season in Africa, and I felt ashamed and embarrassed at how my society at home seems so insensitive to this and therefore terribly inhumane to the less fortunate of the world.

We’re much more capable of protecting Brooklyn from the violence and rising of the sea than islanders can protect Honiara. We can react more immediately to changes in our fishing seas, to threats to our agriculture and even just to the disruptions of our commute to work than any place in Africa can.

So we kick the can down the road with greater confidence that the road spans a long enough period of time that something can be figured out: that new technologies, or new political alliances or who knows what will ultimately come to our rescue.

Africa can’t wait. The wilderness, the animals, the people … they don’t have the luxuries of our development.

Climate change is killing them far more effectively than ebola or ISIS.

OnSafari: Cradle of Humankind

OnSafari: Cradle of Humankind

CradleofHumankindOn our last day in South Africa we toured mankind’s first.

Or some of his first, anyway.

The Lanzerac was kind enough to give us an early breakfast so that we could leave at 7 a.m. It’s always such a crapshoot in South Africa when traveling around the cities during the week, because of traffic. Their highways are modern, but far too small for the concentrated traffic of rush hour.

We were fortunate. Sometimes from Stellenbosch it can take 90 minutes. We made it in 45, checked in to Mango Airlines and were on our way to Lanseira, the smaller municipal airport on the far northwestern side of Joburg.

That meant we were only 30 minutes from Maropeng, translated: Origins. This World Heritage Site includes the Maropeng center and early man museum, and ten minutes away by car, the Sterkfontein caves.

It shot to prominence 15 years ago when the American, Ron Clark, found “Little Foot,” only the third nearly complete skeleton of an early man, in this case, an Australopithecus Africanus.

So the South Africans sprang for something akin to a mini theme park.

After a brief introduction and circular time line that you walk through, depicting the stages of Planet Earth’s long trajectory to life, there is a short video about the early geological forces that formed the planet.

Then it’s to the “boat ride,” a simulation through time that somewhat parallels the deep river caves in which so many precious early fossils have been found in the region.

And this emerges into a decent museum about early man, and contemporary man.

The several-hour visit cave some meaning to what would otherwise have been just a travel day, something when combining South Africa with Botswana is unavoidable.

And so we end our last day in South Africa back at the lovely Michelangelo in Sandton. Tomorrow, to Botswana!

OnSafari: In The Cape

OnSafari: In The Cape

chocwineparingAfter a day at Cape Point we ended our Cape experience in the wine country near Stellenbosch.

Dogged by unprecedented fires, our touring was only slightly interrupted as part of Table Mountain Park at Cape Point was closed. But the Cape of Good Hope, the Flying Dutchman to the Cape Point and our choice picnic spot at Buffelsfontein were unaffected.

Art & Marj Newman, Scott & Terry McKenzie, Joan & Alan Gross
Art & Marj Newman, Scott & Terry McKenzie, Joan & Alan Gross

Yet the damage was visible everywhere, from the sometimes heavy haze of distant hillsides still smouldering to the distinctive smell of ash.

An entire mountainside at Hout Bay was scorched.

I love our specially prepared South African picnics, which overflow with enormous varieties of foods and sweets, and I don’t think I’m exaggerating when I say most of my clients think the South African brownie is better!

The African penguin was toddling around in full force at Boulders, on our way from the Cape into wine country. Considered pests by many of the local residents, SANI Parks has created a marvelous sanctuary for them virtually in Simon’s Town, taking the pressure off many private residences.

Alan Gross with something that doesn't fly.
Alan Gross with something that doesn’t fly.

There is so much more to the wine country than wine. We began the day at Eagle Encounters, a private rescue and rehabilitation center principally for birds, but Alan also discovered some things they take care of that don’t fly!

We’re staying for two nights at the Lanzerac, one of my favorite wine estates for accommodation. The grand rooms are furnished with Boer-style furniture, including some priceless antiques.

Lanzerac wines are excellent, and everyone enjoyed tastings and a cellar tour. We also visited the Tokara vineyard, currently famous for its brash blend of Spanish and traditional French grapes. The day ended perfectly with a chocolate and wine paring at the Waterford estate.

The heart is Stellenbosch, the heart of Boer culture and history. We toured the Stellenbosch museum and its four beautifully restored old homes. There was time to browse the city’s many shops.

Now, one day in Joburg before our venture into Botswana!

OnSafari: District Six

OnSafari: District Six

Dave & Carol Winikoff, Michelle Fisher, Alan Gross, Sue Lebby, Marj Newman and our guide, Linda Fortune, at the District Six Museum in Cape Town.
Dave & Carol Winikoff, Michelle Fisher, Alan Gross, Sue Lebby, Marj Newman and our guide, Linda Fortune, at the District Six Museum in Cape Town.
We spent the day in Cape Town’s District Six, learning of some very heavy history, eating some fine local food and applauding the country’s transformation.

Around 60,000 people were relocated out of District Six under apartheid’s gruesome Group Areas Act, from 1966 – 1974. One of those persons was our guide, Linda Fortune, author and advocate for the District Six Museum.

Altogether more than 3½ million people were forcibly removed from their homes throughout the country during that period, but what makes District Six so important historically is that it was probably the most multi-cultural, multi-ethnic area in the country.
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Begun by the Batavian slaves brought to the colony in the 17th Century, District Six had grown into an “old part” of Cape Town with a rich, rainbow heritage. In an area hardly more than 2 sq. miles, virtually every religion on earth had a house of worship, and virtually all of the 11 race classes proscribed by apartheid had been living an integrated life for generations.

So the breakup of District Six is one of the best examples of apartheid’s sinister mechanisms.

Linda’s story, like all the varied guides I’ve enjoyed having from the museum, was an incredibly melancholy one. Today the residents have reclaimed their land, but it will be a long time before the promised reconstruction of what had been bulldozed down will be completed by the government.

Today the district which has just begun rebuilding is vibrant and … colorful. BoKaap merges with District Six and the primary color architecture of BoKaap brings a smile to every face!

Owner Joey of BoKaap Kombuis explains our special Cape Malay meal.
Owner Joey of BoKaap Kombuis explains the history of Cape Malay cuisine.

And smiles galore to our tummies, too! We had a special Cape Malay meal prepared by Joey and Nazli of BoKaap Kumbuis. Joey gave us a history of Cape cuisine, which he calls a cuisine franca.

Curry lamb, dall, rice, wonderfully spiced chicken, yellow tail, and of course, Bobotie were just part of the fare.

We also had time to visit Streetwires! This is one of my favorite artisan coops in Cape Town, where 55 young artists are trained to create the most imaginative objects from near full-size Volkswagon beatles to every animal on the African veld … all from wire and beads!

Tomorrow we head to Cape Point. Fortunately the fires are out, the park is completely open and even today the spectacular Chapman’s Peak opened as well!

OnSafari: Joburg & Cape Town

OnSafari: Joburg & Cape Town

Rob Lebby and Joan Gross at afternoon tea.
Rob Lebby and Joan Gross served afternoon tea at the Mt. Nelson.
Outstanding local guides complemented my own very personal commentary as we began city touring in Joburg and Cape Town.

An increasing number of black Americans are traveling to South Africa specifically to visit Joburg and its surroundings. But many white Americans continue to see Joburg as unsafe. They’re very wrong.

Alan Gross & Scott McKenzie on more difficult Table Mtn hike.
Alan Gross & Scott McKenzie tackle one of the more difficult Table Mtn trails.
Safety is an issue I discuss frequently with clients and write about in this blog, and it’s an issue which unfortunately is often different from the more important factor, which is the perception of safety.

Joburg definitely earned a bum rap shortly after the end of apartheid as local officials really neglected the city. This was compounded by an incredible influx of African immigrants from around the continent, who with the end of apartheid saw enormous opportunities in black Africa’s most prosperous country.

Crime surged, although by the numbers it never exceeded several American cities in all sorts of important categories like burglaries and homicides. But the point was that Joburg had been a very safe and peaceful city, because the police had been so brutal under apartheid.

When the cap was snapped off, compounded by a new republic’s struggle to allocate precious resources and a huge influx of African immigrants, Joburg sank into a veritable mess.

It’s emerged. Our outstanding local guide, Peter Mashaba, took us Saturday into the center of the city. It’s bustling and active although I would be remiss if I didn’t confirm that it isn’t as sparkling and inviting as when I had a shared office in downtown Joburg for several years in the 90s.

But it’s much better than it was only a decade ago, and it’s infinitely better than the perception that many of my clients have.

Our touring took us to Mandela’s posh home in Joburg where the faithful have stacked small stones with inscriptions on two cairns just outside his wall. We also drove by the international headquarters of Anglo-American which has been relocated into the center of the city.

Other large corporations are following suit, including SAB Miller and Rennies. We saw in the deep center of the city where two new hotels were being built.

Although my tour scheduled three nights in Cape Town most of my guests this time have booked five, and I’m filling every moment.

Dave Winikoff, Joan Gross, Sue Lebby, Dot Malan & Marj Newman.
Dave Winikoff, Joan Gross, Sue Lebby, Dot Malan & Marj Newman.

Sunday was with one of my favorite guides in the world, the lovely Dot Malan, who I think knows more about Kirstenbosch Gardens than any person alive. We got an intense tour of several important parts of the gardens.

Today we went up Table Mountain. It was a spectacularly beautiful day and about a third of the group undertook the whole hiking route at the top! In the afternoon I took them on my historic walk through the Company’s Garden stopping to visit an outstanding exhibit by South African artist Penny Siopsis and for a short time touring Slave Lodge.

I have some avid shoppers in this group. They warned me! But the time in gardens and museums they felt so valuable, they canceled the Green Market Square flea market!

Finally, several of us ended a fantastic day – where else? – but at afternoon tea at the iconic Mt. Nelson Hotel.

Any big city can provide attractions to easily fill a week of touring, and I always feel that we’ve never done enough. I worry, too, that I might be pushing my folks too hard. But so far, anyway, the feedback from this group is … fabulous! What’s next?
table-mountain-top

Cape of Good Hope Not Enough

Cape of Good Hope Not Enough

FiresInTheCapeGlobal warming disrupts my landmark Cape/Botswana safari, but compared to what may happen a decade from now, I don’t think anyone will complain.

A 12,000-acre wildfire has closed one of the Cape’s most spectacular coastal highways and today threatens Table Mountain National Park.

These areas are not simply major tourist attractions, but arguably the most precious of the world’s six floristic kingdoms.
FloristicRegions
The Cape is about 35 degrees south longitude. So is much of Australia and South America. California is about the same, but north. All these coastal areas in their summers are experiencing record-breaking hot temperatures, high dry winds and … unprecedented fire.

“Unless there are rapid …reductions of greenhouse gas emissions …Australia will experience more heat waves and bush fires,” a climatology professor at the University of Melbourne has warned. 2014 and 2015 were the worst years for wildfires in Australia’s history.

The 2014 Chilean wildfires nearly destroyed the port city of Valparaiso.

The Brazilian government has warned of a 160% increase in wild fires as endless lines of flames destroy huge portions of the Amazon.

We all know what’s happening in California.

Light rain yesterday slowed the fire’s advance in The Cape and there’s hope that “heroic” (many volunteer) fire fighters will get control, today.

But the spectacular Chapman’s Peak drive into The Cape Peninsula from the city is closed, and it’s likely to remain closed long after the fires subside.

The destruction of the foliage on the steep cliffs that rise from Chapman’s is now compromised, and rock slides are more likely.

Chapman’s Peak is one of the main tourist attractions and in a very personal way it displays how global warming is lasting and destructive. Everyone remembers catastrophes in personal ways: Saturday 35,000 bicyclists convene at The Cape for the world’s largest timed marathon race. The route has been slashed to less than half its original 70 miles.

We pay attention to the catastrophe of an event, but then we move onto the heroes who ended it never paying enough attention to the long term trends and destruction.

I remember the 1996 Yosemite Ackerson Fire which burned 60,000 acres and may actually now stand as one of the markers of global warming. But at the time it was rationalized as a necessary ecological event, just today as many in The Cape are viewing today’s fire.
capefloristickingdom
The Cape is arguably the most precious of the six floristic kingdoms on earth for little more reason than how small it is. The Ackerson fire was 60,000 acres large. This Cape fire is currently 12,000 acres, a fifth the size of the Yosemite catastrophe.

But Yosemite sits in the world’s largest floristic kingdom, the boreal. The fire was infinitesimal over that immense area.

The Cape’s precious floristic kingdom is less than 800,000 acres large and this fire could destroy almost two percent of that kingdom, an area with a remarkable 8,700 species of plants of which two-thirds are endemic. This rivals the Amazon’s biodiversity and dwarfs the boreal biomes in which Yosemite is found.

A good friend here told me yesterday that “we’re just going to have to learn to live with this” as she repeated the mantra of the importance of fire in rejuvenating plant species.

It’s true that the fynbos biome requires fires more often to remain healthy than the great pines of Yosemite. Most scientists think the optimum for any fynbos plant is 7 years.

But I disagree substantially with my friend’s shrugging off this occurrence. When understood globally we begin to see how sinister global warming has become.

This Cape fire is not a singular event. It’s part of the longitudinal band we can now clearly call the planet’s “Ring of Fire.”

Caused by global warming, increasing fires reduce the plants that produce our oxygen while the actual combustion contributes to increased greenhouse gases. This is precisely the exponential advance that scientist have been warning us about for years.

Yes, heroes should be applauded and firefighters are among the most laudable. But it’s time, folks, to start focusing on the villains.

And among the most notorious of today’s villains are the climate change deniers like our own Senator Inhofe who now chairs the American Senate’s most important environmental committee.

Can you believe that? But I doubt Senator Inhofe even knows what a floristic kingdom is. His cronies in Kansas and Texas have been doing everything in their power to eradicate such nonsense from the public school textbooks.

OnSafari: South Africa’s Cars

OnSafari: South Africa’s Cars

Hoot BayI transferred to my hotel in Sandton last night in a brand new Mercedes Benz, but the driver/owner kept turning the engine off at stoplights to save gas.

That’s South Africa in a nutshell: a veneer of luxury … but a base still struggling to become middle class.

In incredible contrast to the rest of the entire continent, including relative power houses like Nigeria and Egypt and Morocco, there is nothing in South Africa you as a visitor can’t get. Everything from organic kosher milk to a heart transplant, from the newest model Mercedes to the highest tech call center in the world.

Diamonds are a luxury that no one needs, and gold too was nothing but a luxury when first discovered. South Africa has been the world’s primary provider for more than a century. I believe this dependency on the world’s lust for luxury has bored itself into the local South African’s psyche.

If there was ever a top-down economic model, the intractable belief that prosperity trickles down, it’s here.

We’re rapidly coming to the conclusion in the U.S. that trickle-down economics doesn’t work. We – America – the bastion of capitalism is admitting our economic success was not from the flash-in-the-pan headlining Rockefellers, but from the mom-and-pop entrepreneurs who never really make it big, except in the aggregate numbers of them.

Cars reflects that. Long before a little business needs a Madison Avenue PR consultant or Washington lobbyist, it needs a car.

The old adage in the States that as goes GM so goes the economy might be lately displaced by “so goes Apple,” but that’s stepping a bit too far into the future when discussing economies like South Africa that are still trying to develop a sustainable middle class.

That isn’t to deny that every peasant needs a mobile phone. But even Ubuntu – which will long outsell Apple in Africa – is too expensive for many South Africans, today. The sheer number of mobile phone sales in South Africa is an undeniably important and hopeful part of its economy.

But ‘cars’ is driving it this minute.
CharterCarssold2010
The automotive industry contributes nearly 6% of South Africa’s GDP and is the third largest sector in the South African economy after mining and banking, accounting for 29% of the country’s manufacturing output.

Mining and banking are not driven by South Africa’s minions, but by global forces associated to the lust for luxury.

Cars are driven by the South Africa’s minions and it’s substantial.

All the major car manufacturers have plants or shared plants in South Africa. Between a half million and three-quarters million cars are sold annually here. (Ford is the top manufacturer and seller in the country.)

Of the roughly 190 countries reporting in 2010, South Africa was 68th in the world for the number of vehicles sold per thousand persons.

The U.S. was 32nd. Seychelles was actually the African country with the most sales, but the Seychelles has so few people and is such an anomalously rich place for Africa, I don’t think it really counts.

South Africa is the king in Africa, and actually among most countries just below the level of development reflected in the United States.

(Brazil did not report in 2010. Based on a range of years around that, though, Brazil would be the leader in South America and would rival South Africa’s world ranking.)

South Africa stands out as well for an exporter of cars. Toyota’s Hilux truck or pickup, Mercedes Benz’ C220, and Volkswagon’s Polo are the top exporters, respectively. They represent a huge range of car types, from super luxury, to work vehicles to economic vehicles.

So what does this all mean? South Africa is a major consumer and producer of cars globally, from all styles and needs. But many of the owners, like the guy who transferred me to the hotel last night, really pinch their pennies.

Luxury drives visitors to South Africa, and it’s a reasonable presumption that they will appreciate being transferred in a luxury vehicle to the nearest diamond seller.

But the man driving them still lives hand-to-mouth. Though South Africans might cherish thinking otherwise, it’s not going to trickle down.