We were besieged by tse-tse fly in Tarangire, and I was filled with adoration for my clients for toughing it out. So much was seen and so few complaints!

We saw probably around 800 elephants at the end of two days plus a dozen lion including two lionesses hunting unsuccessfully following an obviously failed night.

I took the group on a very remote road out of Tarangire to the south end of Lake Manyara, and the last vehicle when turning a bend nearly ran into a 3-ton male elephant!

According to Linda he turned and trumpeted as the safari vehicle screeched to a halt, then kept flapping his ears and trumpeting as he backed up!

We then spent an overnight at Tree Lodge in Lake Manyara where we saw 7 lions in the tree, Manyara’s trademark attraction. But that was hardly the most dramatic experience: More elephants surrounded Nan and Bill’s deck; More elephants blocked the swimming pool; and Karen and Bob were so surrounded by ele that they emailed me to fetch them free!

All this sounds so exciting, of course, but it confirms my repeated warning that there are too many ele in East Africa. What to do about it is complex and troublesome, but it has to be addressed soon.

We’re now in the central Serengeti after a wonderful afternoon watching crocs and hippos in the Grumeti River. Tomorrow we begin the search for the great migration. Stay tuned!