How dirty is Dar?

How dirty is Dar?

Uncollected garbage outside a "fashion center" in downtown Dar.
Uncollected garbage outside a fashion center in downtown Dar.
Photo by Tanzania's ThisDay.
Africa was agog today with reports that Dar-es-Salaam was the 8th dirtiest city in the world. But are these reports accurate?

No! No! Let me come to the needed rescue of Dar: It is NOT the world’s 8th dirtiest city; it is, in fact, the world’s 12th dirtiest city!

Mercer Health & Sanitation’s Index rated Dar at 40.4. Only three other cities in Africa were rated worse than Dar: Ndjemna (Chad) at #11, Brazzaville (Congo) at #10, and Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) at #6.

No other East African cities came in the top 25, although Nairobi fell into the top 35.

(Multiple African news reports cited a “NYC Consulting Firm” rating of #8 for Dar, but there doesn’t seem to exist an “NYC Consulting Firm.” That list of the world’s dirtiest cities is close to the real Mercer ratings, but not exact.)

Dar is not denying the criticism.

“It is true and I accept that the city of Dar es Salaam is dirty,” Dar es Salaam Regional Commissioner William Lukuvi told This Day an on-line Tanzanian news source. And that’s good, of course.

Dar is the fastest growing city in East Africa. No one is sure about its size, and it’s probably not as big as Nairobi, but closing the gap quickly. It also lacks Nairobi’s sprawling slums, which in an unusual way contributes to the lower Mercer rating.

Nairobi slums have been around for a long time and many NGOs have worked at them, as has the central government. Sewage, bad water, and the diseases that spread as a result, are the main reasons for Mercer’s list of the worst cities. And ironically, the decade and longer attention to the Nairobi slums has actually mitigated what would otherwise be an uncontrollable catastrophe.

Don’t get me wrong. The Nairobi slums are terrible, but the makeshift gullies cut by NGOs and the government does drain human sewage, the main cause of cholera. Last year there was more cholera in Dar than Nairobi.

Dar’s problem is that it is far behind Nairobi in sewage treatment and waste disposal. This is probably because Dar is on the ocean, and it has been common practice to just dump waste into the sea. The practice is now haunting the city, because unlike Nairobi, it has no well-organized sewage disposal.

Dar’s other problem is corruption. Dar’s three municipalities each contract private companies for garbage disposal, but don’t pay them. Instead, they allow the private companies to collect levies however they wish, a completely haphazard and terribly corrupt system.

To his credit, Lukuvi knows this.

“The present system is messed up. You can’t have a contracted company collect garbage and levies at the same time. The municipalities will henceforth be responsible for collecting the levies and paying the companies that are contracted to collect the garbage,” Lukuvi told This Day.

The annual Mercer ratings are important. They corroborate the United Nation’s warning that the greatest threat to the developed world is the lack of clean water.

Of Mercer’s 25 worst cities, 20 are because of a lack of clean water. Only 5 are because of air pollution.

Is Kenya Safe?

Is Kenya Safe?

Safer to be in than Tanzania or Uganda, according to the UN.

The U.N.’s announcement this week that Kenya is now safer for its employees than Tanzania or Uganda sheds new light on how travelers should view government travel warnings.

Not much has changed in the last year in world governments’ advice to their citizens heading on safari. The U.S. and Britain retain a travel warning against Kenya, Canada doesn’t, and Canada and Britain retain a travel warning on Uganda, and the U.S. does not.

The U.S.’ lack of warning on Uganda is political. Ever since Bill Clinton invested so much time and money in Uganda, and more recently when so many U.S. politicians got mired in Uganda’s sticky politics, the U.S. has misrepresented that country’s safety for travelers.

I think Uganda is safe to visit, if you know what you’re doing. As I do for Kenya and Tanzania. But traveling to East Africa for a safari is not as safe as traveling to Branson, Missouri, for a music festival, or to the Loire Valley for wine tasting, and it’s perfectly right of governments to try to explain these distinctions.

After years of trying to figure out these admonitions from a variety of western governments, after years of parsing which are political and which are truly advisory, I think at last there may be a better guide for potential travelers than any government’s specific recommendations.

The United Nations has tens of thousands of employees stationed all over the world. The level of pay – like our own military and foreign service – is determined to a certain extent by how dangerous the UN believes these postings are.

But the UN goes beyond analyzing simple threats to personal safety. It analyzes how easy communication is, what diseases are locally threatening, how likely power interruptions occur, how smoothly complaints and infractions of local law are handled by local authorities, how complete public services are… it even analyzes how enjoyable are local cinemas and theaters, how well stocked is the local grocery store, and how the climate might effect foreigners not used to it. And much more.

It goes on and on, because what the UN realizes is that the “safety” of a foreigner in a foreign place is a “well-being” issue that extends far beyond whether or not al-Qaeda is trying to get you.

And so the UN puts all the countries in the world into 5 categories: A, B, C, D or E.

Get a posting to a country with an “E” rating and you’re going to be paid a lot to maybe get killed. Get a posting to a country with an “A” rating and you’re going to be paid a lot less but will live to spend it all.

Better yet, the UN may divide a country’s rating depending upon what city you’re visiting.

Last week the UN moved Nairobi and Mombasa (Kenya) up from C to B. It kept Arusha and Dar-es-Salaam (Tanzania) and Kampala (Uganda) at C.

That’s exactly how I feel.

C is OK, if you know what you’re doing and how to do it. B takes a little bit less care.

Of the 141 countries in the world that the UN has a permanent presence:
49 are A,
37 are B,
27 are C,
21 are D,
and 7 are E.

Of those 46 are in sub-Sahara Africa:
6 are A,
9 are B,
14 are C,
13 are D,
and 4 are E.

As I’ve said time and again, nobody going on vacation wants to research the safety of where they’re headed. But also as I’ve repeatedly explained, a safari isn’t a “vacation.”

There’s little R&R on safari. A safari traveler is a student, and that’s a wonderful thing. She’s an explorer, lusting for the new and unknown. He doesn’t want a quiet beach in the Carolinas.

So there’s a risk in this, however slight. It takes some guts to want to become smarter, to educate yourself about parts of the world that are foreign to you.

But that doesn’t mean you put yourself in danger. So how best to determine this threshold?

Go first to the UN list. Don’t go if it’s a D or E. If it’s C, then read the detailed travel advisories from your country and others to help you determine if you consider it safe. If Britain, Canada and the U.S. all agree, I think you can take that as a pretty unbiased analysis.

But if they don’t agree, as they don’t in East Africa, it gets a bit tougher. You have to figure out why they don’t agree, and decide who is better to trust.

(Important qualifier: my simple list above is for only the capitals of those countries. Kenya, for instance, gets an “E” for the town of Garissa, which is near the Somali border. So you also need to research your travel by city, beyond the simple capital references given above.)

And finally, I’ll leave you with this travel admonition recently given to travelers from abroad who are considering visiting the United States:

“There is a general threat from terrorism in the United States. Attacks could be indiscriminate, including in places frequented by expatriates and foreign travelers. The US Department of Homeland Security (DHS) has designated the terror alert status of “orange”, or high, for all international and domestic flights in the USA.”

The above admonition comes from Her Majesty’s government of Great Britain.

It’s peaceful in Kenyan prisons

It’s peaceful in Kenyan prisons

Friday's Daily Nation cartoon.  The black briefcase carries the name of Kenya's immigration minister.
Friday's Daily Nation cartoon.
The black briefcase carries the name of Kenya's immigration minister.
Today was supposed to be explosive in Kenya as Muslim activitists took to the street. They can’t. They’re mostly behind bars.

Over the last three days Kenyan authorities have arrested up to 2,000 Muslims across the country, most of them jailed for being “illegal immigrants.”

The crackdown followed last Friday’s riots in Nairobi, provoked (according to the government) by Muslim militants backed by al-Qaeda in Somalia (al-Shabaab). The demonstrators were demanding the release of cleric Abdullah al-Faisal, who the government has been trying to deport.

And further government embarrassment, yesterday: After weeks of trying to get commercial airlines to take Faisal out of the country, the government chartered its own Gulfstream jet wihch broke down on the runway before take-off.

As far as we know, Faisal is still in the country. And activist Muslims are still in jail.

By early afternoon today in Kenya all was calm.

Friday during prayers Muslim leaders around the country told their faithful to avoid further demonstrations. A statement read in thousands of mosques from the Supreme Council of Kenya Muslims condemned the police action but called on all Muslims — particularly infuriated youth — to stay at home, today.

Click here for the full statement as reprinted by Kenya’s FM Capital radio.

Officially the government claims that 1200 “illegal immigrants” have been detained. Unofficially, police put the number closer to 2000. Around 400 have already appeared in court.

Among those known detained are refugees from Somali, including two army generals and 11 Members of Parliament that had fled the growing military success of the al-Shabaab militia.

This is not good.

Many of the Somali refugees in Kenya are not radical; in fact, just the opposite. They’ve fled the fighting there because they are targets of the radicals. In all likelihood, they were moderating influences among Kenya’s Muslim community.

Thursday, a widely circulated internet site claiming to be al-Shabaab posted videos of militant jihadists shouting, “God willing we will arrive in Nairobi, we will enter Nairobi, God willing we will enter … when we arrive we will hit, hit until we kill, weapons we have, praise be to God, they are enough.”

But in a telephone interview with Reuters, today, al-Shabaab spokesman, Sheikh Ali Mohamud Rage denied the site was authentic and said the organization had nothing to do with last Friday’s riots in Kenya.

Now, what? And can anybody get that plane off the ground?

Nairobi Normal

Nairobi Normal

Nairobi is back to normal after a confusing afternoon of city rioting that proved less serious than first reported throughout the world.

Because the march by about 50 young Muslim youths following Friday prayers at Nairobi’s main mosque was a surprise, news reporters were not on the scene. Virtually all of the reporting came after the shots had been fired that killed between one and five people, possibly including one policeman.

Police were on the scene, and that’s the odd part of the story. Reporters usually follow police. But in this case neither local journalists or Nairobi’s most prominent foreign journalists (the BBC and Reuters) were there.

I was unable to find anyone I know who was there, so the best I can do is piece together what seems most reasonable from widely different reporting:

Wednesday following continued difficulties in getting the unwanted radical Muslim cleric Abdullah Al-Faisal deported from the country, the Muslim Human Rights Forum of Kenya announced that following Friday prayers at Nairobi’s main mosque there would be a parade of supporters across the middle of downtown Nairobi to the President’s Office to deliver a petition demanding the release of the controversial sheikh.

They asked for a permit to march from the police and were denied the permit. They did not – as has happened in the past with contentious groups – then announce the march would go on, anyway.

So a relatively small contingent of police positioned themselves in the parking lane off the main Kenyatta boulevard that cuts into the city from the big airport highway. I don’t know how small, but photographs by Capital FM’s radio station show only a single police van.

When the “small” group of marches left the mosque, which is one block south of the city market and one block east of where the police van was, the police tried to stop them. But there were too few police, so the police retreated and started firing teargas.

Demonstrators temporarily returned to the mosque, where the police followed and then surrounded with increasing numbers arriving from other parts of the city. And large numbers of anti-demonstrators began converging on the scene, especially from the City Market.

The second surge from the mosque was much larger, and this time included more prominently displayed placards and including one black flag reportedly representing Al-Shabaab, which is Al-Qaeda in Somalia and the organization with which Faisal is linked. Several marchers in the lead wore military fatigues and covered their heads with black masks, typical of jihadists.

Police retreated, again, and in the mayhem which ensued shots were fired. Police have not contended that the protestors had guns, so this would mean they shot one of their own.

Before the protestors got one block onto Kenyatta street, the now larger group of anti-demonstrators began attacking the demonstrators with knives and anything they could find lying around in the street. The battle between demonstrators and anti-demonstrators went on through the city for several hours as shops and businesses began to close up. Police had lost entire control of the battle.

One Nairobi newspaper claims that Muslim leaders from the mosque joined police in trying to quell the situation, but were unsuccessful. The Standard reported that several hours into the battle the police simply “became spectators” unable to stop the two factions from fighting.

The first march from the mosque was just after 1:30p. By 4 p.m. most of the fighting had subsided, the city center was a ghost town, and the police and shut off all access into and out of the city center. By 7 p.m. the streets were quiet but deserted, not entirely unusual for a Friday night. (Most of the entertainment areas are outside the city center.)

Kenya National Human Right Commission Vice-Chairman Hassan Omar said, “It was a simple demonstration which has turned ugly because police failed to control the crowd letting hooligans to take lead in the protest.”

Muslim groups claim that five people died and more than 20 were wounded. Police say that only two people died, and that one policeman was seriously wounded with a shot to the neck.

The Standard newspaper says that four people died; the Daily Nation says that one person died, Jeffrey Gettleman of the New York Times reported that three people had died, and the BBC reported that five people had died.

So far, the only person named dead is Ahmed Hassan Abdullahi, 25.

Nairobi Riots over Al-Faisal

Nairobi Riots over Al-Faisal

From Aljazeera -- some of the best reporting.
From Aljazeera -- some of the best reporting.

As night fell on Nairobi, Friday, the streets were quiet and five people were confirmed dead.

Below is an edited report from the BBC, but let me first complain bitterly about the NPR report. I love NPR but they continually get Africa wrong. Alone among such giants as the BBC, Reuters and Aljazeera, NPR failed to report that much of the riot was caused when Nairobi citizens started throwing stones against the Muslim demonstrators.

It seems that the police may have then sided with the much larger anti-demonstration crowd and over-reacted. But this would be typical in Nairobi. I remember during the August, 1998, bombing of the embassy. The first public action by Nairobi citizens was to burn the city mosque.

See my earlier blogs this week and last about Al-Faisal, terrorism, etc. Here are excerpts from the BBC:

At least five people have died after Kenyan police opened fire at supporters of a Jamaican-born Muslim cleric notorious for preaching racial hatred.

Faisal is in detention in Nairobi after Kenya failed to deport him.

Kenya wants to expel him citing his “terrorist history”. He was jailed for four years in the UK for soliciting the murder of Jews and Hindus.

Muslim youths began the protest match after Friday prayers at the Jamia Mosque in the centre of Kenya’s capital, Nairobi.

They wanted to present a petition to Immigration Minister Otieno Kajwang and Prime Minister Raila Odinga’s office.

But police had banned the march and intervened.

One banner read: “Release al-Faisal, he is innocent”, reports the AFP news agency.

Some reports suggest that the protesters were waving flags of Somali Islamist group al-Shabab.

Reuters news agency reports that some people joined the security forces in attacking the protesters.

Elephant Attack

Elephant Attack

Yesterday an American woman and her infant were killed by an elephant as they walked out of the Castle Forest Lodge near Mt. Kenya.

The name of the woman has not yet been released, but Kenyan authorities said she was the 39-year old wife of a teacher at Nairobi’s International School. The age of the infant was not given.

Reports by Agence France Presse said they were in a small group “casually walking” into the forest, and that the group included her husband who escaped unhurt.

None of the reports has been confirmed by U.S. authorities, but they are likely true.

The Castle Forest Lodge is a downmarket log motel not too far from Serena’s Mountain Lodge, one of Kenya’s five tree hotels. It’s located on the south end of the Mt. Kenya National Park, an area known to have many elephants. Expat workers typical of a U.S. high school teacher frequent the facility. One night with all meals costs $63.

One night with all meals at the nearby Serena Mountain Lodge retails at $260.

I am intentionally implying that the more you pay, the less likely you are to get trampled by an elephant.

The largest group effected by elephant deaths in Africa are not tourists, but Africans in their homes and farms who also do not have the insular experience of a well-run tourist facility. I am not implying that Africans or expats who pay less should be any less protected from elephants than my own Park Avenue clients.

There are some very nasty edges to the make-up of a tourist.

Garlic Mustard Terrorism

Garlic Mustard Terrorism

The new regulations announced in the last few days in response to the attempted bombing of Northwest #253 are pitifully stupid and counter-productive.

I see the developed world’s response to terrorism identical to the developed science response to invasive species.

Whether it is kudzu, the Asian beetle, or the arch devil garlic mustard, absolutely astounding amounts of private and public funds have been allocated for “eradication.” The U.S. government maintains over a dozen websites with instructions on invasive species control, and enormous amounts of resources have been expended over the years to curtail invasive species.

It is hard to find a single… that is one example of success.

And yet there are many examples of secondary destruction to the environment in the attempts to control the invasives.

This is an issue I’ve written and felt strongly about for decades, and my passion about it was generated in Africa. But the topic is endless and the data copious, yet I have yet to be presented with a single true example of success.

To be sure certain invasive species have been curtailed in limited geographical regions and have produced positive economic outcomes, such as the temporary curtailment of the zebra mussel in the Great Lakes or the stabilization of kudzu in the deep south. But even these partial examples of success are hard to document, are likely to be reversed, and the environmental impacts of their containment have had their own often worse environmental ramifications.

Many gardeners or authorities over small county-like natural reserves may claim success in curtailing species like garlic mustard or loose strife, and indeed in their small geographical areas they may achieve a level of success for a while. But it doesn’t last, and the efforts expended to effect the limited success often produce more damage than had nothing at all been done.

Essentially, I do not think we can control nature in any macro-successful way. What we have to do is understand it and anticipate it. It’s appropriate and effective to have rigorous agricultural barriers at international entry points, to impede the spread of species we determine may produce negative outcomes in our own society. But once it happens, it’s beyond our current capacity to control in any demonstrably beneficial way.

That’s exactly what terrorism is to culture: Identical to invasive species to the environment.

I wrote recently that any military success we might achieve in Afghanistan would only push the centers of terrorism elsewhere, and that this was currently being demonstrated in Yemen and Somalia.

We can cull deer in the Skokie lagoon, or remove all the garlic mustard from the Kasper Conservancy, but all this does is push the vermin to the periphery, exacerbating by concentrating the problem elsewhere.

It does not deal with the cause.

In the case of invasive species, we need to study why an invasive is so successful. Success in nature should be considered a near first principle, and at least a tautology. Garlic mustard might be spreading like wildlife, because its natural inhibitors are being eradicated. Maybe, a natural inhibitor is a birch tree. Maybe garlic mustard, in turn, is a natural inhibitor to wild parsnip and maybe wild parsnip is a natural inhibitor to poison ivy. And any idiot who thinks we will ever complete the list doesn’t understand nature.

But by concentrating on understanding the links, we will increase an overall awareness of nature’s tautologies. We will cease trying to reverse nature, and may, ultimately, be able to manage its future outcomes to our greater benefit.

Ditto for the Darth Vaders in the world.

There is a cultural reason for the persistence of Al-Qaeda. It will not be eradicated, any more so than garlic mustard will be eradicated. Al-Qaeda is part of the human fabric of culture, exactly as garlic mustard is of nature. It is as impossible that we will eradicate Al-Qaeda from the world as we will eradicate garlic mustard.

But if we cease to think of it as a growing threat capable of taking over the world’s sweat peas than we might spend some time trying to understand why it is so successful, and we might ultimately come to some terms with it. Maybe one solution is to let it grow and take over the distant prairie, and thereby orchestrate a cease fire that allows our sweat peas to flourish in our backyard garden.

There’s an old saying: live, and let live.

In the last few days, airlines have instituted some of the most absurd regulations described as enhanced security in response to the attempted bombing of Northwest #253.

Perhaps the most absurd regulation is that you can no longer leave your seat (or even stand up) during the last hour of the flight. The “rationale” for this is that the bomber had to leave his seat and retrieve his hand luggage to mix the incendiary device. OK, so our incendiary devices will now be mixed 65 minutes before landing instead of 60. In fact in the mayhem as dozens of kids and grownups race to the toilets and pull down the luggage hatches to arrange their last hour of imprisonment, any monitoring of unusual behavior becomes more difficult! How stupidly absurd is this new rule!

We are not going to stop future terrorism with rules like these. We are going to infuriate the public and make travel infinitely less desirable, which may even be an objective of the terrorists.

We are not going to eliminate Al-Qaeda by wiping them out of Afghanistan and Pakistan. They’ll just then go to Somali, then to Yemen, then to the Congo… it is a link so long that when the last chain is used, the first will be ready to be used, again.

If we want to stabilize terrorism, if we want to stabilize the spread of garlic mustard, we will cease trying to eradicate it. We will expend our resources to understand it fully, and then to negotiate our own subsequently more intelligent behavior in ways that make it ineffective as a future threat.

It is in preparation and manifestation of the future that we will succeed. Not in trying to reverse the situation of the present.

Live, and let live.

War Against the UnWilded

War Against the UnWilded

Up to a third of East Africa’s tourism work force is now out of a job. Until now, it didn’t take guns to send them packing.

A number of high-end, professional robberies have been reported at camps in East Africa over the last month. As in downturns in the past, many disgruntled workers turn on their former employers in a number of ways. The most common one is to become the thief that knows where the clients’ valuables are stored.

As in the past, we’re all more vigilant in instructing clients how to act if there is a hold-up. And we’re more careful where we stay. And usually, nothing happens. Thefts tend to occur in areas with less police protection, like private reserves, and on lonely roads we have to avoid.

And until Tuesday the current trend wasn’t violent, but Tuesday Tanzanian police confronted five robbers fleeing the prestigious Grumeti Reserve and shot them to death.

The media has been all over with praise for the Tanzanian cops, but frankly, I think this is bad. There’s no need to make a war against redundant workers.

According to two sources, Agence France Press and Wolfgang Thome, a reporter based in Uganda, staff at the upmarket Grumeti Reserves tipped off area police that five laid off workers were planning an inside job. Presumably it was the inside that ratted on the outside.

Police and other security operatives laid a trap for the robbers. When the robbers arrived, they were killed in a gun battle started by the police.

I’m not suggesting that our empathy for redundant workers should transform into letting them off the hook. But my experience with these guys is that they’re hungry, educated and have little interest in doing anything but stealing wallets. The Tanzanian response might just have been a bit over the top.

Note: The next day, Grumeti Reserves announced it was seeking a new head of its Tanzanian operations.

Terror in Somalia/Fear in Kenya

Terror in Somalia/Fear in Kenya

Kenyan police at the border post at Mandera with Somalia say villagers are fleeing the fighting leaving only a "ghost town."
Kenyan police say fighting in Somalia has turned the Kenyan border post at Mandera into a ghost town.
Fighting on the Kenyan border with Somalia does not mean Kenya’s stability is further threatened, but it does mean we better start paying more attention to Somalia.

The bold bombing in what had been a stable part of Mogadishu, today, and which killed several government ministers as well as a dozen graduating university students and several journalists, finally catapulted the Somali conflict into the world media, again. According to Google this morning, there were nearly 500 major media stories about the blast, second on the day only to news about Afghanistan.

This major escalation of the terribly complex and horribly bloody Somali conflict comes less than a week after a major battle between two Somali factions temporarily spilled over the Kenyan border at Mandera. This was the second such incident in a month. In October, fierce battles spilled over the border town of Dhobley, about one hundred miles south of Mandera.

Kenyan Internal Security permanent secretary, Francis Kimemia, confirmed Tuesday that Al-Shabaab rebels had captured the border towns opposite Mandera during a weekend of fierce fighting with the rival clan, Hizbul. Kimemia was then quick to say the conflict had been contained in Somalia.

Kenya has many troops and police in this near desert area in its far northeast where Kenya borders Ethiopia and Somalia. Many UK and U.S. soldiers have been seen here, and some openly in the large Kenyan island city of Lamu from which they stage operations.

The U.S. as well as many experts consider Al-Shabaab to be Al-Qaeda, and it is widely known that despite the U.S. support for the internationally created Somali government in Mogadishu, that the U.S. also supports Hizbul, which is trying to overthrow that central government.

The enemy of my enemy is my friend.

But while Al-Shabaab may be responsible for today’s suicide bombing in Mogadishu, the real battle between Al-Shabaab and Hizbul is for the important southern part of the country which borders Kenya, mainly to control the well developed Somali port of Kismayu. This is the center of Somali piracy, the single largest contributor to this tattered country’s GDP and could easily rival Mogadishu in many respects.

Abdullahi Jamaa of Nairobi’s Daily Nation wrote yesterday, “Somali gunmen often prowl along the borderline and their presence is testimony to the fragile security in much of Kenya’s lengthy border [with Somalia]. Over the years, the worsening situation of Somalia has rendered the security of Mandera all but non-existent. Residents live in fear.”

But most Kenyan officials are not worried that actual fighting will spill over from Somalia, and I agree, at least for the foreseeable future. Rather, there are two other immediate problems.

The first are refugees. The Dhobley battle in October sent as many as 2,000 Somalis fleeing into Kenya. Last weekend’s battle in Mandera sent very few, and that is likely because Al-Shabaab has now consolidated its victory over Hizbul for the whole length of the Kenyan border. But caring even for as few as 2,000 refugees is a great drain on Kenyan resources.

The second problem which Kenyan government officials consider even more daunting is the huge inflow of Somali piracy money into the Kenyan black market.

Internal Security Minister Professor George Saitoti says instability in Somalia had led to colossal sums of (pirate) money coming into Kenya illegally.

“And of course when they come here, it may appear initially that it is good for the economy but sooner or later that kind of money ends up distorting the monetary system and the economy as a whole,” the Minister said at a forum recently attended by U.S. Ambassador to Kenya, Michael Ranneberger.

* * *

I believe that Kenya is too stable to be a goal for Al-Qaeda the way Afghanistan and Somalia definitely are. Kenya is too developed, too modern, too secular. I remember all too well the embassy bombing in August, 1998. The first thing we noticed only hours after the bombing was how the city’s residents had set fire to the city’s main mosque.

In the ten years since then, Kenya’s development and integration into the western world has sped up exponentially. Despite the terrible election violence of December, 2007, the country is currently peaceful and in the context of a world recession, actually prosperous.

But what is happening to Somalia is extremely dangerous, and being aside Kenya it gives us an unique and hopefully more urgent perspective.

If we are successful in Iraq and Afghanistan, and if the Pakistanis are at all successful stabilizing their own country, where will Al-Qaeda go?

Somalia.

Mali Travel Warning

Mali Travel Warning

In a rare consensus between usually disparate advisories, most of the developed world issued warnings this week against traveling to Timbuktu and much of Mali.

The announcement couldn’t have come at a worse time for Mali tourism. January is the month of the growingly popular Festival in the Desert, Africa’s largest annual rock concert. Officials for the concert insist it’s going ahead, but a number of performers are already canceling.

Several countries, including Canada and France, make a serious distinction between many of the more developed areas along the Niger River west of Timbuktu, explaining that those seem to be OK to visit. But the UK and US were less sanguine and issued much more serious warnings.

The U.S. warning, in fact, specifically restricts any U.S. government employee or subcontractor from visiting these regions – including Timbuktu – without “prior authorization.” This is the highest level of American warning.

The problems began last January when a group of travelers exploring a remote part of the Sahara Desert far north of Timbuktu were kidnapped. The kidnappers claimed to be “Al-Qaeda in the Land of the Islamic Maghreb” and later killed one of the hostages, Edwin Dyer, a British national. The British travel office said in its November 20 warning that “further kidnap attacks are likely.”

Since the January incident, tourism in Mali had fallen by 50% but had begun to slowly recover. These announcements are likely to seriously impede any recovery.

The January incident led to Mali government military actions in the remote Saharan frontiers, and much more serious gun battles occurred than were expected. None of these were reported as Al-Qaeda incidents, but rather “Tuareg rebel groups” which are much more likely organized bandits than terrorists.

TOURISTS KILLED

TOURISTS KILLED

With sadness I must report that two tourists were killed on a Mombasa beach on October 15, but it’s extremely important to keep this in perspective.

The event has attracted enormous worldwide coverage, yet little is known. It’s very important to not jump to too many conclusions.

That isn’t because tourist deaths are not important for all of us to know, but because it represents two of the 120,000 British tourists who have visited Kenya in the last year.

If we consider the British visiting Kenya a virtual city, the percentage who have been murdered is one-tenth the murder rate of my city, Chicago.

It is also much less than the tourist murder rate in such common places as Antigua, Mexico City and even St. Petersburg. In fact two British tourists were murdered in Antigua this summer.

So while the news is very sad, these are the first two tourists reported killed this year in violent crime in Kenya.

The British Foreign Office kept the news quiet for nearly two weeks, as the couple was killed on October 15 in what British officials call a “bungled burglary.”

The statement also repeated a long warning to British beach holiday makers not to walk on the beaches after dark, but no further details were released. The Kenyan police are saying nothing.

So while the details are not yet known, and the reason for withholding the story not yet know, I’d bet that the couple tried to resist, and that led to their murder.

Reports of attempted burglaries that do not end so tragically are rarely reported, because crime in general is so high in Kenya. We learn of them rarely through the news, most often through the grapevine. There are admittedly many thefts and holdups of tourists throughout East Africa each year. But discipline to not resist usually results in little if any violence or injury.

BOATS & PLANES

BOATS & PLANES

The troubled Indian Ocean combined with the troubled skies of air carriers is causing great pain among long-haul travelers, now.

Seabourn Cruises is the latest to suspend its cruising in the Indian Ocean. CEO Pam Conover said today the piracy issue was the main reason, and it probably is, but so is reduced demand. Recently Seabourn was extending a 50% discount for bookings on its Seabourn Legend. They had never offered such deep discounts before.

And according to a Brookings Researchers report issued yesterday, you better expect to be missing about one in five of your airline connections in the next year!

It’s a confusing report to many laymen, because it shows that on-time performance is improving. But the problem is that even though the airplane may be loaded and ready to go, or may even be in the air a minute or two early, more than 10% of all such aircraft are being delayed from landing by air traffic controllers.

As a result one in ten aircraft is arriving two hours or more later than scheduled!

So don’t plan a trip with too many connections, and if you do, give yourself way more than two hours to connect.

BBC TRUTH?

BBC TRUTH?

The BBC reports today that “rival ethnic groups in Kenya … are rearming in readiness for violence at the 2012 poll.” Their sources are weak.

With as many as a half of Kenya’s educated 20-30 year olds out of work, with perhaps as much as $1 billion of “stimulus” provided by the western nations, with a persistent drought we hope will soon end but hasn’t yet, I think any half-baked journalist could find people in Kenya who are buying and selling guns.

The BBC’s Wanyama wa Chebusiri claimed to have “discovered arms dealers selling sophisticated weaponry in the Rift Valley.”

This, Wanyamawa, is not news.

For years and years you could go into any crowded slum of Nairobi and get an AK-47 for around $100, and at times, for as low as $50. The route into the troubled heart of Africa goes right through Kenya. The land route to the Somali pirates begins in Kenya.

I don’t like it, but Kenya has been an arsenal for years.

The BBC quotes a “Kipkorir Negtich” from a group the BBC calls the “Eldoret Human Rights Resource Centre” as their principal source.

I can find limited references to either the man or the group. Kenya is filled with progressive human rights groups with active websites and enthusiastic members. There doesn’t seem to be either for this group. The only reference I can find to the man is one in 2002 where he allied himself with Eldoret clergy against alleged instances of torture.

The BBC then tried to corroborate itself by asking Kenya’s deputy minister for internal security, Orwa Ojode, about the charge. Ojode said he was “aware of the problem” and blamed it on Kenya’s neighbors.

Ojode is a thug who was in the cabal of former national police commissioner, Hussein Ali, who recently “retired.” He is one of the few members of Parliament that have actually been censored by the Parliament (May 8 of this year) for threatening another member during floor debate.

A week ago a number of Kenyan blogs (click here) announced that Ojode was trying to move up politically and might be arranging a few publicity stunts. What a source for the BBC!

I’m not disputing the BBC claim entirely. I’m just saying that the source is weak, the situation may not be new, and it may not imply – as the report clearly does – that there is an escalation of tension.

Is Kenya Safe?

Is Kenya Safe?

As safe as Argentina or Hungary.

First-time safari travelers often refer to the U.S. State Department site for travel warnings, and then scared out of their wits, they call me.

But the U.S. State Department site is very much out of sync with the rest of the world’s analysis of Kenya’s safety for tourists, as it is for many other parts of the world, too. The much better traveler sites produced by the governments of Canada and Britain put Kenya in the much more realistic category shared by many, many countries, including Argentina and Hungary.

Traveling to East Africa is not as safe as a vacation to Disneyland, but it is likely as safe or safer than many other popular destinations in the world, and this is the message that is so deplorably eclipsed by the clearly political tincture of the U.S. State Department site.

Consider that yesterday’s travel warnings for February 25, 2009, included 28 countries, of which Kenya was one. But Egypt — where a tourist was killed and many more injured by a suicide bomber who walked into a tourist area of the Cairo bazaar this past Sunday — is not on the list. That was only four days ago! And in the past after much larger tourist killings in Egypt, the State Department still did not put Egypt on the list.

India is not on the U.S. State Department list. India had a devastating terrorist attack in one of its two main tourist cities, Mumbai, last November 26, and the attack lasted a horrifying three days. It was really more a war than an attack. 173 people were killed and more than 300 wounded, and many of these were foreign nationals. The main targets were luxury foreign tourist hotels, one of which was virtually obliterated.

Mexico isn’t on the U.S. State Department list. In fact, here’s the State Department’s message to college students traveling to Nogales this Spring Break:

Nogales/Sonora: Puerto Peñasco, a.k.a. “Rocky Point,” is located in northern Sonora, 60 miles from the U.S. border, and is accessible by car. The majority of accidents that occur at this Spring Break destination are caused by individuals driving under the influence of alcohol. Travelers should exercise particular caution on unpaved roads, especially in beach areas.

Last fall was the bloodiest time in Nogales’ long drug wars. The ongoing battles culminated in the assassination of a major police commander on November 1, with more than a day of heavy gun battles that injured scores of people, including several foreign nationals. Already this year, more than 3,000 innocents have been killed during gun battles in the border areas between the U.S and Mexico.

But according to our State Department, the greatest risk to college kids traveling now to Nogales is “driving under the influence of alcohol.”

The last real violence in Kenya was after the election in December, 2007. I wrote a lot about that, and though it was before I blogged, I have now post-dated all the broadcast emails into blogs. Just click to the left on the 2008 indexes. It includes daily reports and reports of my own trips to Nairobi during the conflict.

From January through June, 2008, we canceled or redirected 28 safaris that had planned to visit Kenya, and as I wrote in late February, that was probably an over reaction. By March, 2008, Kenya was completely peaceful.

When the violence began in December, 2007, there were 80,000 tourists in Kenya. These were mostly Europeans at its beaches. Half of all the tourists to Kenya never leave the beach. And half of those 80,000 stayed and did not alter their vacations. This was certainly a sad time for Kenya, and more than 1,000 people died in the violence. Not a single tourist was hurt.

Local violence, no matter how it is directed, does not make for a fun vacation, and that was the reason we altered all the safaris that had planned to go there in early 2008, even though I was never concerned for the safety of tourists, or of myself. The last terrorist incident in Kenya was in November, 2002, when terrorist blew up a beach hotel north of Mombasa frequented by Israelis. Thirteen people were killed and 80 injured. Almost three years later, on July 7, 2005, 52 people were killed and another 700 injured in… London. The “7-7″ attacks occurred during rush hour on the London public transport system, a clear and directed attack against westerners by Islamic terrorists.

Britain isn’t on anybody’s list.

I don’t think the story ends by adding up the deaths and destruction, even though those are the hard statistics and those statistics actually show Kenya rather risk-free when compared to Egypt, India, Mexico or …Britain. There is, of course, more to it. As many governments are quick to point out, their decision whether or not to issue a travel warning has to do not just with the actual risk of an incident, but how capable that government is of helping their nationals who might fall victim to it. Needless to say, Americans can be assisted much better if the incident is in Britain than Kenya.

But even with this important qualification, more realistic western governments like Britain and Canada don’t make the blatant (I believe, political) mistakes regarding countries like India and Egypt discussed above. And neither do they consign Kenya to the dustbin of 28 other worst terrorist countries, like America does. What’s behind this? Why does America come down so hard on Kenya?

It started with the Bush administration looking desperately for ways to vindicate 9-11. It looked backwards and found in 1998 true Al Qaeda terrorists who blew up the U.S. embassy in Nairobi in August. The Kenyans truly bungled the police action that followed that incident, having apprehended the principal suspect a few days after the incident, who then escaped and was never recaptured.

Just as the Bush administration exacerbated rather than diminished terrorism with its fool hardy war in Iraq, torture and rendition policies, it worsened the situation in Kenya and neighboring Somalia by a series of childish missteps.

At one point there were four separate travel warnings the Bush administration placed on Kenya. One was slapped on the country the day after Kenya refused to allow an American warship to dock at the port of Mombasa. Another was published the day after the Kenyan Speaker of the House tabled terrorism legislation written by the U.S. for Kenya, effectively killing it. The Speaker said at a press conference that the legislation promoted by the U.S. for Kenya “is worse than America’s own Patriot Act.” These two actions actually strengthened Kenya’s own internal security. But instead of support, the State Department collects Kenya with Burma and North Korea.

In December, 2007, someone “looking like an FBI agent” according to Nairobi’s Daily Nation newspaper, walked into the Hilton Hotel in Nairobi and shouted to everyone to leave, that the hotel was going to be blown up. That afternoon, another (fourth) travel warning was slapped on Kenya that warned of an imminent bombing of either the Hilton or Stanley Hotels. This was at the beginning of Kenya’s highest tourist season.

The next day, the British ambassador invited journalists to a press conference at the Stanley Hotel, and then to breakfast at the Hilton Hotel, where he put the record straight. A Somali was resisting deportation that day, and when being dragged onto the plane by Kenyan police, the miscreant shouted that the Hilton and Stanley hotels were going to be bombed. The British ambassador wanted to emphasize that was not reasonable intelligence.

Traveling anywhere outside a familiar world has changed substantially in the last generation; there is more risk. It would be fool hardy to suggest otherwise. The very acts we consider so routine when we go through airport security in Dubuque, Iowa, would seem draconian only 15 years ago if implemented at JFK. The world has changed, and with it, our need to reflect carefully on where we’ve been and where we want to go. There will be some who undertake this reflection and decide to stay home.

But for the American traveler who will not let the world situation dampen his thirst for seeing new things and discovering new cultures, and who wants a more balanced and complete assessment of tourism risk, I suggest other national sites than the U.S. Here are two good ones, but there are many more:

BRITAIN’s travel risk site places Kenya in the same list of countries that include India, Ecuador, Indonesia, Thailand and Turkey.

CANADA’s travel risk site gives Kenya a 2 out of 4 level of risk, placing it in the same category as India, Argentina and Hungary, among many others.

I’d like to leave you with a true story that shows how relative risk is to the international traveler.

The man who runs my transport in Nairobi is an old friend who I’ve been working with for more than 30 years. His eldest son came to the U.S. for college, and then as with so many Kenyans who are educated abroad, stayed here. He became engaged, and his wedding was scheduled for December, 2002.

It’s not easy for even the most well-off Kenyans to make arrangements and get visas to visit us in the United States, but this man’s family persisted through long lines and many hours and 17 of them finally made arrangements to come to the wedding. My wife and I agreed to host some of them.

I became somewhat perturbed by the end of the summer, 2002, because they hadn’t yet advised us of their travel arrangements. The wedding was to take place in Philadelphia, a wonderful venue, because it made visiting both New York and Washington rather easy. But by September, we still didn’t know their flight details, and my own calendar was getting tight.

Finally, an email came in the fall of 2002. In a lengthy apology for delaying us, and another lengthy thanks for all we had done and were offering to do, my man in Nairobi said he and the other men in the party who were coming over got together and decided that it “simply wasn’t safe to travel to America, now.” So they called off the biggest trip of their lives, forfeiting the considerable time and money it had taken them all to obtain visas. The son got married without his family, (although they all did come the next year).

9/11 was big around the world. It scared a Kenyan more than the embassy bombing in Nairobi in 1998. It reminded him of the Oklahoma City Federal building blast, of Timothy McVay and the Atlanta Olympic killings, the World Trade Center and Columbine, and all of these made traveling to America in 2002 much more risky than staying home… in Kenya.

The world is different, now, than even 30 years ago: the 1985 Achille Lauro cruise ship hijacking; the hijacking of TWA in Cairo in June, 1985; or the 1988 Pan Am disaster over Lockerbie. All of these unfortunate disasters preceded the Kenyan embassy bombing, and there were no fewer victims or less misery. It’s all quite relative. We must be more vigilant than before, but for those of us who will never extinguish our natural yearning to travel, we must also be measured and intelligent, something that right now, the U.S. travel site is not.