Dry Season Serengeti

Dry Season Serengeti

I usually don’t visit the Serengeti in the dry season, but the drought in Kenya made it a practical alternative. We weren’t disappointed!

The director of the Cleveland Zoo, Steve Taylor, said at the end of our time at Ndutu Lodge in the southwest Serengeti that it was the best game viewing he’d ever had there, and one of the best first game drives.

I don’t think I can disagree. In the first two hours that the zoo group was in the bush, we saw 10 lion (7 of which were cubs, and 3 of which were eating a warthog), a mother cheetah with two three-month-olds, and the most classic leopard I remember ever seeing.

This extraordinary bang-bang-bang of the big cats just doesn’t usually happen. Only about one out of three of my safaris finds leopard at all. Part of the reason is that this is the dry season, there’s less foliage to obscure game viewing, and it’s easier for the predators to hunt.

It’s easier for the leopard and lion, because they can hang around the known water sources and wait for the animals that must ultimately come down to drink. It’s easier for the cheetah, because the grass isn’t as high and they can see so much better.

In fact, the grass was very, very low. This wasn’t a drought as is the sad situation in Kenya, but it much dryer than normal. I must admit that I was worried having been here only two months ago and having watched the steady drying up since January.

But the veld is amazingly resilient. Lake Masek was completely dry and there was only a tiny sluice of water in Lake Ndutu. But at the end of Lake Masek the swamp was pretty healthy and there were several sections of open water.

Every once in a while we could see swaths of green, and the Ndutu manager, Colin, confirmed there had been short periods of rain at unusual times. This very slight greening had provided enough fodder for the impala, which didn’t look too bad and which were having fawns.

We saw quite a few elephant, also fairly healthy looking. The Masek swamp is an important elephant corridor between Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, and we have always found transient ele there. And we saw just as many, if not more, than usual.

On the upper plains behind Lake Ndutu we saw tons of Grant’s gazelle, and that wasn’t surprising. Even as Samburu turned into a desert, we’d fine Grant’s. But with them on the high plateau were a few zebra and lots of Thomson’s Gazelle, and that was unusual for such a dry time. And finally, we encountered a dozen or so giraffe, mostly male, very large and dark. I’m not sure what this means.

Because the area of good game viewing was limited to the swamp, we kept going back there each time. But the marvelous thing about doing this is that you start to get to know the animals. Jerry Wagner was intrigued about how there seemed to be only 7 cubs on the first game drive, and then suddenly two more appeared on the next drive!

There’s never a certain answer to such wonderful mysteries, but I explained it could have been that the two had got lost, or that they had been on the kill still eating which I suspected the pride had managed not long before we arrived the first time. Or, maybe, we just didn’t see them the first time!

And everyone enjoys Ndutu Lodge, especially me. The mornings are so beautiful. And what a treat to sit down to breakfast as a 5-gallon bucket of water is poured over the bird bath drawing down at least 500 brilliantly colored Fischer’s Lovebirds.

What a way to begin!

Dry Serengeti

Dry Serengeti

Our safari encounters a very dry Serengeti. Is a drought, or are floods, coming?

We arrived Ndutu Lodge on Wednesday after an extremely dry drive east to west across the entire bottom half of the Serengeti. It isn’t yet a drought, but it’s very dry.

We started north of Olduvai Gorge, saw the remarkable Shifting Sands and had lunch on a kopjes near Lemuta. The veld at a distance had a patina of green, but was mostly brown. There was no new grass. We found a few waterholes, but they seemed to be drying rapidly. Around one, five hyaena seemed to keep guard.

The difference between the Serengeti Plains when they are verdant and green, and when they are dry as now, is the difference between exuberance and depression. We found abandoned Maasai bomas, no sign of Maasai anywhere. There were still some animals – as I said, it isn’t yet a drought, but the herds were nowhere to be found.

The plains looked like they do in August. It was even the more remarkable, because Ngorongoro was so wet.

Universal opinion here is that global warming is causing extreme fractures in traditional weather patterns. A hundred-square mile area like the crater can be normal and wet, and adjacent at Olduvai it’s like a drought. Sand rivers and seasonal streams intersect these areas, so it definitely isn’t as bad as a real drought. But it isn’t good.

On Thursday we had to leave the Serengeti all together and enter the Maswa Game Reserve. There at its southern end near the Kerio River we found lots and lots of seemingly happy wildebeest. The veld was green and there were puddles of water everywhere. But at Ndutu where we stayed, it was dust.

Lake Ndutu looks OK. But Lake Masek is dry and the swamp is brittle. How absolutely remarkable that there can be such a difference in such a relatively small area.

On Friday we headed north to the center of the park. In a complete switch from normalcy, the center and the western Moru Kopjes were beautiful and green, wet and gorgeous. And while it may have taken us a few days to discover this, the wildebeest already knew!

Massive seas of wildebeest were coming from two opposite directions into this area. From the north around Seronera, and from the south at Ndutu, they were flooding into the Moru Kopjes in the west center of the park. It was fabulous for us!

We took the long route all the way around the kopjes, and the site on the western side was stupendous. Great lines of running wilde – looking quite healthy – were streaming through the passes in the great sculpted kopjes. Thousands of zebra followed. And on our way out of this beautiful dense herd, we saw a huge leopard!

George Haley, a farmer from Illinois, remarked, “I don’t understand how there can be so many animals in one place!”

For us we’d accomplished our task, found the wilde and in huge numbers. But I remain so worried for Tanzanians. Whether a drought will now develop, or floods will arrive late, neither will be good for man the farmer, or man the miner, or even man the city dweller.

For the animals, they’ll work it out. Obviously floods are better than a drought, so for them I worry less. There’s a 50-50 chance that life will be just A-OK for them.

But for men, it’s already a disaster.