What are the Heavens doing?

What are the Heavens doing?

African Trust for Elephant's camp in Amboseli has been a dust-bowl for three years.
African Trust for Elephant's Camp in Amboseli.
For three years it has been only a dust-bowl.
Wildlife people are happy, social activists are alarmed, and the poor Turkana people believe it’s the end of the earth. El-Nino’s floods have blown up the drought.

From the Serengeti to Tarangire to Tsavo to Samburu to the Mara, the rains are tumbling down. And the last to report torrents – as was to be suspected sitting in the rain shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro – was Amboseli in late December. And with that report by Harvey Croze of the African Trust for Elephants, we can say definitively that…

It’s raining too much!

“Three inches [of rain] may sound pitiful for those getting inundated with rain and snow in other parts of the world, but in Amboseli that represents almost 20% of the average annual rainfall. In one week!” Croze wrote on January 7.

One of East Africa’s best writers and little known is the wife of the legendary elephant researcher, Ian Douglas-Hamilton. Here’s what Oria Hamilton had to say in her recently circulated Christmas Letter of 2009:

I can finally tell you ‘the drought has ended’ and with it wonderful things have happened. The outlying hills and mountains are dark, as if newly painted against massive white and grey clouds looming above us streaked in sun-setting orange light, and all over the land, green grass, green bushes, green trees can be seen. It has been raining nearly every day since I arrived, the river is flowing, gently and continuously taking all the stress and hardship with it. Today we have food in abundance and water everywhere. The earth is a rich damp dark brown. Nature is extraordinary, ever changing, regenerating, on the move, reproducing – each day racing to catch up for all those desperate dry months. Thousands of little acacias are sprouting all along the river bank and the grass seems to be growing while I look at it. I barely dare to tread on it while I take my walk and this week the ‘lamb tails’, little white flowers, have blossomed and from afar it looks as if it has snowed.”

Normally in Samburu now the rains would have stopped, but they haven’t, and that means that an El-Nino phenomenon is definitely in play. That’s good for the veld, but it’s not so good for the folks whose home it is.

Today Kenya announced nearly $1 billion dollar in combined aid from the Kenyan Government and aid organizations like the Red Cross to serve almost one million newly displaced persons. Between Kenya and Tanzania the death from raging floods was confirmed above 100, today. Roads are being literally washed away, with nothing left after three years of erosive power caused by the drought.

Livestock losses in Kenya’s far north are approaching 90%. And one of the most exceptional stories of this episode comes from the Turkana village of North Horr. In normal years the village gets 2″ of rain annually. The people in the area depend rather on the water systems and aquifers generated by Lake Turkana.

Since the rains began in Turkana in October, the area average that has fallen has been 10″. That’s more than five years worth of rain in three months. It is a desert incapable of dealing with this inundation even at the best of times.

I remember the last real El Nino in 1992-93, so I’m not quite ready to claim that all the drama we’re currently experiencing is completely a global climate change phenomenon. And back then the rains were actually a bit heavier than we’ve so far experienced this year, but the human and animal ramifications were far less severe.

As societies and ecosystems as a whole grow (in size) and develop economically, sudden change of any kind is harder to deal with. And that’s certainly what we’re seeing now in East Africa, and I venture in many other places in the world as well.

So put “able to deal with sudden change” at the top of every responsible world citizen’s most necessary skills. And, this is so hard to say, please Ngei, turn off the taps … at least a little bit.

Tanzanian, or Houston Sorcery?

Tanzanian, or Houston Sorcery?

Activist Member of Parliament in Tanzania decries sorcery being used against her in the current election. This is tongue-in-cheek, but not even google knows this.

A report in one of Dar-es-Salaam’s major newspapers this morning was picked up by literally thousands if not hundreds of thousands of other media, probably for what was presumed as comic relief. Even google.news had it on its front page.

But everybody’s missed the point! It’s a perfect example of how the electronic world can actually invert news completely… or maybe, how savvy techies can manipulate truth in evil ways. Here’s the story.

Ms Beatrice Shelukindo is one of the most outspoken and progressive members of Parliament in Tanzania’s current government. She’s a tireless fighter for reform and brazen whistle blower. She’s been in trouble not a few times with the powers that be.

She and a few other noble souls were responsible for the resignation of Tanzania’s attorney general about a year ago, after uncovering a scheme where Andrew Chenge enriched himself by around a $1 million in kickbacks from the purchase he orchestrated as the country’s chief legal counsel of a radar system the country didn’t need.

She and a few other noble souls helped get the resignation of the country’s PRIME MINISTER for yet to be fully revealed corruption in the country’s electricity companies. And she’s currently embroiled in a controversy with the Richmond Development Company of Houston, Texas, which is supplying gas power to Tanzania. (That is an entire story in itself, by the way. If Shelukindo’s accusations are true, Richmond Development is in violation of American federal law.)

Also recently, she wondered aloud in Parliament if all the nominated district officers around the country were qualified, or just idiot relatives of those in power.

Tanzanian politicians in power don’t like Beatrice.

After Obama’s election, she issued the following statement:
“We pay homage to Democrats for the win but above all I pay tribute to his wife who was around with him throughout the campaigns. We all know that behind every successful man, there is a woman advisor. I also pay homage to Hillary Clinton who, despite the fact that she lost has shown solidarity,“ said Shelukindo. `Tanzania values humanity and democracy, let us emulate the good deeds by Americans,“ Shelukindo concluded.

Why wouldn’t Tanzanians in power like this? Because I and many others believe Tanzanian power centers were ruefully corrupted by the Bush initiative made just before he left office, which was basically Tanzanian accolades for the Bush administration as a quid pro quo for unusual aid.

At the time you may remember it was hard for Bush to find anybody in the world who liked him, so he made a quick trip to Tanzania where he was praised after promising $350 million in new aid. The Obama administration seems to have no compulsion to make good on this.

Beatrice is from a rural area of Tanzania, Kilindi. Here is the entire report from Tanzania’s Citizen newspaper today, filed by journalist Hussein Semdoe:

Kilindi MP Beatrice Shelukindo has expressed fear that some people in her constituency could be playing some witchcraft antics against her.

The outspoken MP, who has declared that she would defend her seat in October election, complained that she encounters bizarre incidents whenever she visits the area. The CCM MP believes the antics are part of dirty tricks employed her potential opponents to defeat her.

She said her car tends to breakdown without any mechanical problem or in case the car is able to move it ends up getting involved in accidents. She made the allegations while addressing voters in different villages in the district.

Speaking at Saunyi and Mswaki villages late last week, Mrs Shelukindo appealed to the witch doctors to endorse her as she had done a lot to bring development in the area.

“I am amazed by what is happening to me these days… whenever I plan a tour of the constituency, my car breaks down. For instance, I was rushing to a meeting in Songe recently when my car broke down,” she said.

“I boarded a passenger bus which also broke down. The second bus I boarded met similar fate and I was late for the important meeting,” she added.

“Witchcraft has no advantage. We should change our mindset and concentrate on development and education,” she lamented.

And so the whole world picked this up to laugh at a developing country and point fun at one of the few, aggressive, valuable MPs in the Tanzanian Parliament.

The truth is not as funny. I really doubt that Beatrice was speaking seriously; much more likely she’s speaking tongue-in-cheek to her own constituents the same way any politician might make fun of themselves. And in any case, why is google.news reporting this when they didn’t report her outing of Houston’s Richmond Development Company?

They’re trying to get rid of Beatrice. And the electronic media’s desperation for news is helping them in spades.

Muslims & Terrorism in East Africa

Muslims & Terrorism in East Africa

Sheikh Abdullah al-Faisal
Sheikh Abdullah al-Faisal
The story of a young extremist Islamic cleric in Kenya gives us some insight into how Muslim extremism may be effecting East Africa.

Twenty-six year old Sheikh Abdullah al-Faisal has already spent 4 years in British jails, eight years studying Islam in Saudia Arabia, and tonight is in Kenyan detention since no airline will fly him anywhere.

My disclaimer is mandatory: Christian fanatics in my own country are as responsible – if not more so than Muslims – for the religious tension and the wars they’ve provoked. I take a dim view of organized religion.

Click here to go to Wikipedia’s site to document that more than 90% of the terrorist acts in the last generation were perpetrated by non-Muslims, and before 9/11 there were more Christian acts of violence than Muslim ones.

But at the moment it is the threat of Muslim extremism that is worrisome to East Africa. Somalia is right next door. Christian fanaticism actually is responsible for much of East Africa’s misery, but that seems to be coming to an end in Kenya and Tanzania.

Weirdo Christians running around in white dresses and hoods (that for all the world look like Klu Klux Klanners) of which Kenya’s past dictator Daniel arap Moi was a part, seem to be subsiding.

Once upon a time you had to be a communist AND a Catholic to be a part of Tanzania’s ruling party, the CCM. But that’s been over for some time.

Only Uganda remains in the death-grip of Christian extremism. President Museveni’s proposed death-for-gays bill was spurned by individuals associated with Washington’s “Family”, a weird fanatic Christian group including not but a few prominent politicians like Iowa Senator Chuck Grassley. Museveni is as much a modern-day Christian crusader as there will ever be.

FYI: (Increasing world denunciation of the death-for-gays bill might be working: the Ugandan Parliament seems to be modifying it to “life in prison” rather than death.)

But the power that Al-Shabaab now wields in Somalia, and the growing conflict in Yemen, are battles being won by very extreme Muslims. And today’s story about Faisal may help us understand how vulnerable East Africa is to fanatic Muslim politics.

According to Kenya’s Minister of Immigration, Otieno Kajwang, Faisal was arrested New Year’s Eve in Mombasa on accusations of links to terrorism, ten days after entering Kenya overland from Tanzania.

Kajwang said Faisal had slipped into Kenya through a small border post, explaining that had he used an airport or one of the major border posts where the immigration controls are linked by computer, his name would have shown up on the watch list and he would not have been allowed entry.

“We have fears that it is not in our public interest to allow him to either preach or live here,” Kajwang said.

The immigration minister said that even though the cleric hadn’t committed any crime, “the fact that he is on the international terror watch list said it all.”

“We are walking a tightrope here…we have been attacked by terrorists and it is only right if we seriously defend our borders,” Kajwang said.

Yes, But… The Tanzanians claim he was never in their country.

Sixtus Nyaki, the acting Arusha regional immigration officer, said Friday there was no truth in reports that the radical preacher had entered Kenya from Tanzania.

“I can confirm that the Jamaican preacher has not entered Tanzania,” Nyaki told Tanzania’s The Citizen newspaper.

Well it’s clear Tanzania doesn’t want him, either, but it’s not clear they didn’t have him.

One report in The Coast, a small Mombasa publication, claimed that Faisal’s passport showed that he definitely was in Tanzania and that he entered Tanzania overland from Malawi. There is no indication how he got into Malawi but the paper reported his passport also showed recent stamps from Nigeria, Angola, Mozambique and Swaziland.

Sheikh Abdullah al-Faisal was born to a British Christian Salvation Army couple in St James, Jamaica, where he was christened Trevor William Forrest.

Obviously not impressed with Salvation Armyism he left home at 16 before finishing secondary school, eight years later graduating with a degree in Islamic Studies from an institution in Riyadh, Saudia Arabia.

He then returned to the UK, where indictments from his trial claimed that this then under 20-year-old preacher was urging his audiences to kill Jews, Hindus and Westerners. He was tried and convicted in Britain in 2003 and jailed.

Released after serving his term four years later, he returned to Jamaica where the Islamic Council of Jamaica banned him from preaching. He then went to South Africa where he did preach extensively in mosques, there.

There are many more Muslims in Tanzania than Kenyan, but Tanzanian society is not as open as Kenya’s. All of Tanzania’s media has reported this incident, but none has quoted any Islamic cleric response.

It’s much different in Kenya.

“This is curtailing al Faisal’s freedoms of expression and association in a very discriminative manner that is totally unacceptable,” said Al-Amin Kimathi, the chairman of the Muslim Human Rights Forum (MHRF) in Kenya.

“It follows a pattern we saw throughout last year where Muslim scholars and aid workers were arbitrarily arrested and deported from the country on very flimsy grounds,” Kimathi added.

The Supreme Council of Kenya Muslims chairman, Prof Abdulghafur El-bussaidy, said he knew little about Mr al-Faisal’s visit, but directed journalists to another powerful Kenyan cleric, Sheikh Mohammed Dor, who has recently been nominated to the Kenyan Parliament.

“[Faisal] is an honest man who came into the country legally… he has not done anything wrong,” El-bussaidy told Kenya’s Nation. Dor also dismissed reports that Faisal had called for the killing of non-Muslims.

“I have CDs of his preaching … from what I have seen and heard, you will love him. He only talks about the rights of Muslims but has not in any way called for the killing of anyone. Those are rumours being propagated by the western world.”

“Why is it that it is only in Kenya that he has been arrested, based on malicious information from the West?” Dor asks.

Yes, that’s the question. Why Kenya? Why not Tanzania? And what does this mean?

Why did Kenya act on the likely enhanced terrorism communications that occurred after the Christmas Day incident, and why didn’t Tanzania? Why did clerics in the more Muslim country of Tanzania not react to this, and why did they in Kenya?

It’s an election year in Tanzania. Friday in Dar-es-Salaam, the President of Tanzania addressed all the local diplomats and warned them against making any public statements about the upcoming election. It was a chilling meeting.

In the last Tanzanian elections in 2005 there was widespread violence in Zanzibar. The divide was definitely a religious one: Muslim vs. non-Muslim. The violence in Kenya in 2007 was much more severe, in part because Nairobi is a hundred times bigger than Zanzibar, but the divide there was rich vs. poor. Later an ethnic component would emerge in the Kenya troubles, but it was never religious.

Tanzanian power is apparently as good at silencing its own population as its foreign diplomatic core.

I don’t believe that’s wise. It’s a lot hotter in Tanzania than Kenya. Tightening those bottles of fizzy water only shakes them up and increases their explosive power.

Rwandan Finale?

Rwandan Finale?

The serious rift between Rwanda and France was deeply aggravated by a Rwandan government report released yesterday reconfirming that the 1994 genocide was started by extremist Hutus.

This may not seem like news. The rest of the world has already accepted this. But this begins what I hope is the Last Act in this horrible history.

The April, 1994, genocide was of more than 800,000 Watutsis carried out by Hutus. No denial of this. But France has always contended that rebel Watutsis were responsible for the event which led to their own massacre.

This event was the shooting down of the (Hutu) presidential jet as it began to land in Kigali on April 6, 1994, by a sophisticated air-to-surface missile fired from quite near the airport. Everyone aboard was killed, including the Hutu president of the country.

The U.N., France and Belgium had soldiers in the country because of the growing tensions between the Hutu government and the Watutsis. French soldiers were the first to arrive at the scene of the crash. They walked away with the plane’s flight recorder and have never surrendered it to the Rwandan government or U.N. authorities.

In the day or so immediately after the plane’s being shot down — before the actual slaughter began — The French government sided with the official Hutu government outrage that claimed Watutsi rebels had shot down the plane.

Because of President Clinton’s political fatigue with ‘Blackhawk Down’ in Somali, and because of the French position on who was responsible for shooting down the presidential plane, France and the U.S. blocked efforts by other countries in the U.N. to send more peace-keeping troops to Rwanda.

And so the genocide began unabated.

Rwanda has never forgiven France for using this pretense to stop the U.N. from possibly having beefed up its military mission enough to have stopped the genocide.

France has never forgiven the current Watutsi government in Rwanda for what it considered a gruesome way to come to power: fire the first shot knowing this would provoke the Hutu genocide of your own tribe, and thereby provide justification for the massive retaliation that organized Watutsis rebels mounted from neighboring Uganda.

Most of the world does not believe France. But France has hardened its position over the years. The plane that was shot down on April 6, 1994, was carrying a Hutu president returning from a peace conference with Watutsi rebels. France contends that the deal he had struck with Watutsi politicians would have cut out the massive Watutsi rebel military, headed by Paul Kagume, the current Rwandan president.

France acknowledged the horrible genocide that occurred by Hutu against Watutsi, and France never tried justifying this, of course. But when the huge Watutsi rebel military poured into the country from Uganda where it had been training, and relatively quickly stopped the genocide, France was furious.

“Why had they waited?!” was the basic French contention that the Watutsi military had allowed the genocide of 800,000 of its own tribe, just to justify their military coming to power.

France began massive aid helping the Hutu refugees that began fleeing into neighboring Congo. In the years which followed, many of these Hutu refugee camps became military training centers for the dreaded “Interamwe” which began raids back against the new Rwandan government and continues today to cause havoc in eastern Congo.

The feud deepened recently when French undercover agents in Germany arrested Rose Kabuye, the current Rwandan President Kagume’s chief of protocol. A French magistrate charged her with “complicity in murder in relation to terrorism” over the downing of the plane.

France claims that Kabuye – who was a rebel Watutsi fighter at the time — was personally involved in the plot to shoot down the plane in 1994. The French government refused some international suggestions that the U.N. Rwandan Tribunal be allowed to try the case.

France has always believed the Tribunal was biased. French authorities said that only the French justice system was capable of ultimately resolving the facts.

* * *

I think we can trust the French justice system. The French lawyer for Kabuye believes he will be able to submit the Rwandan government report as evidence to support her case, and that ultimately the long French position will finally be proved wrong, as it has been assumed wrong by the rest of the world for more than 15 years.

I hope so. It isn’t just that the continuation of this ridiculous feud between France and Rwanda is impeding all sorts of local development in the area, it is the terrifying possibility that France is right.

For if France is right, no respectable country could continue to support the current Rwanda regime.

When Not To Come To Nairobi

When Not To Come To Nairobi

About 8:15a, Wednesday 10Jan6, airport road into city.
About 8:15a, Wednesday 10Jan6, airport road into city.

Try not to arrive Nairobi in the morning of any weekday. If you do, you’ll end up a part of this.

The congestion in Nairobi’s morning weekday (and sometimes, Saturday) traffic has become apoplectic. Traffic it is no longer. From about 630a until 930a it is a frozen sea of smelly metal.

Travelers leaving Jomo Kenyatta Airport for the city or any destination north should expect as much as a 150-minute drive on what in the evening or on Sunday morning would be a 20-minute drive.

Blogging in today’s Daily Nation commuter Samantha Spooner writes:

Another blog that involves cars… but this is the reason this blog is being written – it is where we are spending a huge proportion of our time these days. A blog on ‘stuck in traffic’ is nothing new but the situation has become so absurd that something needs to be written, if for nothing but my sanity.

Previous to Samantha’s post, I had believed that idle remarks on Facebook were how people were curing insanity.

Elephant Attack

Elephant Attack

Yesterday an American woman and her infant were killed by an elephant as they walked out of the Castle Forest Lodge near Mt. Kenya.

The name of the woman has not yet been released, but Kenyan authorities said she was the 39-year old wife of a teacher at Nairobi’s International School. The age of the infant was not given.

Reports by Agence France Presse said they were in a small group “casually walking” into the forest, and that the group included her husband who escaped unhurt.

None of the reports has been confirmed by U.S. authorities, but they are likely true.

The Castle Forest Lodge is a downmarket log motel not too far from Serena’s Mountain Lodge, one of Kenya’s five tree hotels. It’s located on the south end of the Mt. Kenya National Park, an area known to have many elephants. Expat workers typical of a U.S. high school teacher frequent the facility. One night with all meals costs $63.

One night with all meals at the nearby Serena Mountain Lodge retails at $260.

I am intentionally implying that the more you pay, the less likely you are to get trampled by an elephant.

The largest group effected by elephant deaths in Africa are not tourists, but Africans in their homes and farms who also do not have the insular experience of a well-run tourist facility. I am not implying that Africans or expats who pay less should be any less protected from elephants than my own Park Avenue clients.

There are some very nasty edges to the make-up of a tourist.

Honeymoon in August

Honeymoon in August

Andrew@

Q. I am writing to inquire about my honeymoon in August & September of 2010. My fiancée and I are very interested in planning a combination safari and beach extension over a 10 day period. More specifically, we’d like to spend four/five days on safari (preferably in Southern Africa – Botswana/) and then spend an additional four/five days in a beach resort to relax.

A. Andy –

First of all, congratulations!

August and September are perfect for a safari in southern Africa, so I’ll get to that in a minute.

Keep in mind that a “safari” in southern Africa usually includes 2 or 3 days in beautiful non-safari places like Cape Town. Southern Africa is more like California than the Congo. Its range of attractions is immense, including one of the world’s most beautiful cities, Cape Town, endlessly beautiful hiking trails and forests, great theaters and museums. So an optimum holiday to southern Africa meshes game viewing with these other “european-like” attractions. If this isn’t what you had in mind because it’s really intense game that you’re after, then I’d direct you to East Africa, instead. Just as a very broad comparison, in a week of best game viewing in southern Africa in August you’re likely to see 10-15 lion. In East Africa, that will be 50-60. But unlike southern Africa, East Africa has few of the other great “european-like” attractions that southern Africa has.

The beach experiences at this time of the year in southern Africa aren’t at their prime. This is southern Africa’s winter. There are islands off Mozambique which will give you a pretty good experience, but starting in about mid-August, the day time temperatures might not get above the lower 70s (although the Indian Ocean is the warmest ocean in the world). There is great variety, though, in mid-August and you could see a day touch 80 but that’s a gamble. Take 5 to 10 degrees off those numbers if you stay in South Africa along its coasts. Now if you are divers or active water sports enthusiasts, this may really not matter. But if all you’re looking for is R&R, then you might rethink this section.

The best beach experiences for August and September are much further north in East Africa: Zanzibar, or off the Kenya or Tanzanian coasts. And keep in mind that there is no beach experience anywhere on the African continent which can compete with our own. I normally point this out to couples when a conflict of interest like this might arise. In other words, the best I could give you at any time of the year anywhere on the continent would probably not meet the experience of our better resorts in the Caribbean or Hawaii.

So if you stick with southern Africa as your venue, you might want to just consider a safari experience that ends for a slightly extended time at a very romantic resort… but not for sunbathing on the beach. For example, there are some very romantic properties at Victoria Falls, as well as actually within game parks. Along the South African coast east of Cape Town (known as the “Garden Route”) there are beautiful and romatic villas and resorts on the sea, but the sea is like northern California in the winter. So you’d certainly be able to beach comb and hike, but not swim. And like in Mendocino, for example, you’d be beaching combing with a nip in the air, probably in your fleece.

For a safari experience August and September are ideal for southern Africa, its winter. The slightly better game viewing is in Botswana and Zambia, near Victoria Falls, but several flights and nearly a day’s journey from Cape Town, so you’re not only investing more time (presuming you start at beautiful Cape Town), but also a larger budget because of the extra flights involved.

Heavy Rain Pounds East Africa

Heavy Rain Pounds East Africa

Flooding yesterday in Kenya's Turkana region, an area that rarely gets rain.
Flooding yesterday in Kenya's Turkana region, an area that rarely gets rain.
As predicted very heavy rains are right now slamming East Africa.

And also as predicted, the prolonged three-year dry spell which preceded these downpours created horrible conditions for the areas now in flood. There was little vegetation left to hold things together, and massive erosion is occurring in certain areas.

The hardest hit ironically are areas in Kenya’s north where it normally doesn’t rain at all. Turkana and the far northern frontier is a mess. There aren’t tourist game parks in these areas.

The hardest hit areas in Tanzania are just west of the big city of Dar-es-Salaam, in and around the large metropolis of Morogoro. This is right on the central Tanzania tourist circuit.

Kenya has confirmed 21 dead from flooding, and Tanzania has confirmed 9. Kenya further said that as many as 30,000 people have been displaced from their homes.

The Kenyan Red Cross says that an additional 70,000 people are at risk of losing their homes if the rain doesn’t stop. In Kenya it should have stopped a month ago. Previously the Red Cross had claimed that 3.8 million people in Kenya were seriously effected by the drought which preceded the rains.

Kenyan officials also confirmed that 17 bridges have been washed away and 29 roads damaged by flash flooding.

1% of Rhino Population Poached

1% of Rhino Population Poached

KWS officials at their news conference yesterday.  Photo courtesy of FM Capital Radio.
KWS officials at their news conference yesterday.
Photo courtesy of FM Capital Radio.

A major KWS nab of rhino poachers in Laikipia, yesterday, reveals new and terrible sophistication in rhino poaching.

Recently a friend chastised me for writing so negatively in my blogs, remarking specifically about the number of blogs about poaching. She’s right, of course. My blogs about poaching have increased substantially. Poaching always increases in an economic downturn, but this time Tanzanian and Ugandan wildlife management policies are even making it worse.

Tanzania and Uganda are substantially increasing their hunting and Tanzania has revoked its support to keep elephants on the CITES most endangered list.

Add to these wrong government moves, an increasingly bad approach being taken by international wildlife organizations, and we are creating the perfect storm for successful poaching.

I’m referring in particular to the incredibly stupid move just before Christmas by Fauna and Flora International (FFI) to import into Kenya’s Laikipia four of the remaining eight northern subspecies of black rhino in existence. (See my blog of December 26.)

Yesterday, a cell of poachers nabbed in Laikipia revealed a level of sophistication obviously much higher than the idiotic organization that dumped these precious rhino into the criminals’ lair.

A cell of twelve highly sophisticated “businessmen” – an organized corporate cell not just errant individuals – were arrested by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) in possession of two recently poached rhino horns valued at $300,000.

Yes, you read correctly. The value of a rhino horn on Kenya’s black market is now around $150,000 per horn. It’s estimated that Fauna and Flora raised a quarter million dollars to transport the four rhino from Europe to the Ol Pejeta reserve in Kenya in December. Each of those rhino has two horns. The ROI for the bad guys, delivered right into their hands by supposedly good guys as their investment, is a neat 500%.

Try that on some Laikipia community based tourism project.

Baby born yesterday in the Ziwa Reserve, Uganda.  Photo by Angie Genade.
Born yesterday in Uganda's Ziwa Reserve. Photo by Angie Genade.

According to KWS Director Julius Kipng’etich, the suspects took down a 10-year-old female rhino at the Mugie rhino sanctuary. This is one of the best patrolled sanctuaries in Laikipia, owned by the author, Kuki Gallmann, and it lies oh about a two hour’s easy drive from Ol Pejeta, which is not as well patrolled a reserve, where four of the most precious life forms on existence now are up for target practice!

The “cell” included two poachers with a marvelously new Landrover and new weapons, six professionals running the feed-through front at the Luonyek trading center near Baringo, and four other accomplices.

According to terrific reporting by Catherine Karong’o of Nairobi’s Capital FM Radio, 18 rhinos were poached in Kenya last year, 13 of which were on private reserves like Mugie and Ol Pejeta.

This would be the first time since 1984 in the heyday of animal slaughter that 1% of Kenya’s existing rhino population was killed in one year.

“For us in Kenya,” Kipng’etich explained, “even the loss of just one [rhino] means a lot to us.” Kenya’s has the third largest population of rhino of any country in the world. South Africa has the most in well protected reserves, and the U.S. has the second… in zoos.

According to the KWS Director, the Kenya black rhino population now stands at 600, while the white rhinos are 240. Globally, it is estimated that there are 4,200 black rhinos left, and 17,500 white rhinos.

And 4 (that is FOUR) of the remaining precious subspecies of northern black rhino (the only rhino immune to tse-tse born diseases) has been plopped into the poacher’s den with specious conservation applause to the idiots who funded the project. Including a Vice President of Goldman Sachs. (Oh, sorry, didn’t they make some other mistakes, recently?)

I could go on and on, but let me stop with this: no charity, no NGO, no private donation can succeed as well as government-to-government action and the swift, scientific aplomb of well-run government agencies. Kenya is beset by a myriad of problems, but the KWS works well. And the KWS’ work is now made much harder by Fauna and Flora International. FFI is an old and respected private conservation foundation, which has done a lot of good work. This time, what it did in December was DEAD wrong.

What a Deal!

What a Deal!

At last East African tour companies are doing the right thing to try to get back on their feet, and there are incredible deals for new bookings.

The New Year arrived with a plethora of tour deals, and they’re real. They include ridiculously cheap airline tickets, internationally and domestic, 3rd and 4th nights free, and just the good old drop in prices. These are real deals that will be pulled once the market recalibrates.

One of my great criticisms of East African tourism over the years has been the typical but counterproductive reaction to a downturn in business of raising prices.

I know that’s counter-intuitive, but as I’ve explained before, supply/demand really only works well in a functioning free market. The developing world is moving that way, but they aren’t quite there. Even in the most scrooge-like companies in the developed world, laying off workers is expensive. There are either severances to negotiate, or high unemployment taxes to be paid.

Not so in the developing world. Just tell Johnny at 4 pm not to come to work, anymore, and then close a third of your lodge. Raise the prices on the bookings which are left and maintain a semblance of profit. The profit will be a lot smaller than it was, but it won’t be a loss… except, of course, for Johnny.

The problem with this strategy is that the market is not waiting in the sidelines to jump back into East Africa. If prices go down in India, it’s likely quite a few potential East African visitors will end up there, instead. A huge percentage of East African travelers come as referrals, so every booking lost represents multiple bookings for the future.

The raise-your-prices, lower-your-costs strategy is terribly short sighted for East Africa. East Africa must mature into the real supply/demand dynamic that governs world tourism.

This time, East African companies seem to be getting it right. Prices are definitely dropping. I reported earlier that 2010 contract rates issued last November showed a 5-10% decline over 2009. This is the first time since EWT has been keeping records that there was ever an announced decline in contracts.

And over the New Year’s weekend, a whole bunch of new offers began appearing.

A number of tour companies, including EWT, are now able to offer free Zanzibar or Mombasa beach stays after 10 or more day-long safaris.

Air fares have sunk through the basement. The leader is the airline, Swiss, which is offering roundtrips from New York at $1143.10 with taxes, and from London at $646.50 with taxes. But there are many others close to this. Many are offering free stopovers at interesting places, such as Turkish Airlines, where you can now stopover from the U.S. at Istanbul, then continue your East African trip for around $1200.

Business might be doing the right thing, but the Kenyan Tourist Board is stuck in the past.

Last week it announced a “vigorous recovery” of the tourism industry which was a flat-out lie. Announcing an expected 680,000 arrivals for 2009, the KTB proudly said this was a huge recovery representing a 17% increase over 2008.

Uh, did anybody remind that statistician that 2008 had tourist arrivals of 50% of 2007, because of the political turmoil in the country, and that there was no economic downturn in 2008?

What a joke. Kenya was approaching 1.2 million visitors in 2006. Let’s be real, honest and forthright. Neither the consumer or travel reseller is going to be anything but perturbed by these ridiculous statements.

Anyway, this morning’s overall reality is great! It’s taken so damn long for East African businessmen to realize what is necessary in the global market. I don’t think anyone should start planning a recovery party, soon, because this downturn has been deep. Whether tourism or tea, the recovery will be a long one.

But those who take true supply/demand initiatives, and who are honest with their consumers and resellers will still be standing when the sun finally rises.

And tourists, don’t wait for that sunrise! The deal is now!