Driving on Safari

Driving on Safari

A flying safari with no overland experience isn’t a good enough travel experience.

It’s become more and more popular, today, to fly from game lodge to game lodge in Africa and avoid the sometimes trying overland travel through Africa’s deteriorating cities and towns over some of its horrendous roads. That’s just as bad an idea as sending a kid from boarding school to boarding school, and moving up from suburb to glen to city skyscraper. You can move through life without ever knowing how most people live.

We’re all members of the Family Man on planet earth, and I think it extremely important to at the very least have a glimpse of how most of the world lives. One of the best ways to do this on safari is to drive – at least partially – from place to place.

In Kenya that’s an enormous challenge, since the country’s roads are in such poor condition. I thought it particularly funny this week that following the government’s announced budget where the ministers of various departments were told they could no longer have SUVs, but would have to use more fuel efficient, smaller cars, that there was an outcry from many of them. Some complained that it was beneath them to drive cars that “teenagers drive” while one minister in the government said in absolute irony that a small car wouldn’t do well, “because Kenya’s roads are so bad.”

My family safari began overland. I make a point to leave Nairobi only on Saturday or Sunday, when the traffic is only mildly chaotic. We traveled north past another slum, past the main city prison and then past the huge sports stadium on the outskirts of the city, which not even the poorest Kenyan resents having been built.

It takes a terribly long time to reach anything approaching “country.” Those who had read the book or seen the movie, Flame Trees of Thika, are startled when I tell them we’re approaching this supposedly idyllic country town. All the way to Thika is now urban and slum sprawl.

But shortly thereafter the highlands do present a picture of real beauty. Fortunately, this area has received a decent rainfall. The majority of Kenya hasn’t, but the central highlands look good. The banana and paw-paw trees, the blooming red flame trees and oodles of bougainvillea splashed on hills cut by running streams is a picture to remember.

This was Saturday, the biggest day for the Karatina Kikuyu open-air market. Everyday the market is incredibly colorful, run mostly by big Kikuyu women dressed to the nines, in colorful big poko-dot dresses selling as many varieties and colors of beans as the poko-dots on their dresses. There are stacks of custard apples, oranges, apples, figs, passion fruit. I bought everyone fresh slices of new pineapple that were delicious!

The market has a very small curio section that is mostly Kikuyu baskets often purchased by people in the highlands. They are gorgeous, and Ada, Joannie and a few others bought up the most beautiful ones. Whitney wanted one of the beautifully beaded belts made here, but unfortunately according to the wonderful lady who made it, he had eaten too much and she had none that would fit. She told him to change his diet to lemons and come back when he had shrunk enough!

Interaction with locals, wherever you travel, is an essential ingredient for understanding where you are. Without it, you simply carry your TV screen around the world. The Karatina market was a wonderful way to do this, but even just gazing out the window passing the confusions and blisters of a poorly emerging nation helps, too.

Global warming has given Kenya a patchwork of drought. From Nairobi to Karatina, the country was beautifully green as it should be after the Long Rains. But north of Karatina, including the Aberdare where we ended the day, is suffering a serious drought.

The dedicated staff of the Aberdare Country Club made it wonderful even in the midst of a drought. After we checked into this historic manor, some of the group walked with a guide through the backlands of the estate where there were many giraffe, waterbuck, warthog and impala. The lush grounds of the estate with its endless bougainvillea and mature flowering bushes was still good enough for a variety of beautiful sunbirds.

But even in this most protected of animal habitats I could see distress, particularly among the waterbuck, the first to suffer. It’s now been almost a year since they’ve seen rain.

Kids on Safari

Kids on Safari

Children will make just as big an effort to get on safari as adults!

Traditionally, American family safaris operate almost exclusively within the summer school vacation window, July and August. I try to push mine a bit earlier, since the game is better and the veld not quite as dusty and dry.

The Addington family really pushed themselves to meet this opportunity. Nicholas and Phoebe, 9 and 7 years old, with little sister Jane (4 yo) and Mom and Dad left school Thursday afternoon on its last day and a few hours later were on a plane from New York to London, and arrived Nairobi Saturday night!

The teenager triplets, Alex, India and Ellery (16 yo), and their little sister Emma (9 yo), crammed all their finals at school into one day (it was usually three), so they could be in Nairobi Thursday night to be able to sightsee in Nairobi, Friday.

We spent all of Friday touring Nairobi and environs. My Nairobi entry activities are all optional, because some people really need to wind down. So Saturday was split in two: morning and afternoon sightseeing. The morning sightseeing began at 9 a.m. Everyone was there, after having not hit the sack the night before until 10:30p.

We started at the national museum. A wonderful, unexpected attraction was to see the lines and lines of Nairobi school children on an important field outing. I explained to the kids on my safari that most Kenyan children never see a wild animal. One of the main attractions for them is the central exhibition hall with its huge display of stuffed big game.

We raced through the museum, noting the brilliant exhibit of the different gourds from around Kenya, representing the different cultures, tribes and languages. The floor-to-ceiling pyramid of more than 150 beautifully decorated gourds is an impressive lesson on how diverse the people of Kenya are.

It was then to the Early Man Hall. As I’ve written before, this is one of the finest exhibits in any museum in the world. The Cradle of Humankind near Johannesburg gets close, but Nairobi actually displays for the public seven of the most important original early hominid fossils, including Turkana Boy.

We then went into the city and walked the streets from Parliament to the Stanley Hotel. I’m able to describe history, politics and relay many funny stories on this section of the trip. We were really lucky to have such a beautiful, fresh day, too. At the Stanley we enjoyed their famous coffees, pastries and Stony Tangowizi for the kids, and took some time to look at the beautifully restored early colonial bar on the second floor.

An unexpected bit of excitement was when Ellery was stopped on the stairs of the New Stanley by a reporter from Nairobi’s hip talk radio, 91.5. Ellery is a soccer star at school, and the reporter wanted to know his impressions of the recent sale of Ronaldo from Manchester United. (Ellery thought the transaction was a bit excessive.)

The afternoon began at 2 p.m., with hardly an hour free time in between, and once again everyone was there. We traveled to the suburb of Karen and started at the Kazuri Beads Womens Cooperative before visiting Giraffe Manor. Even smaller Phoebe was photographed stroking the giraffe head which was easily twice her entire size!

I feel very strongly that visitors to East Africa need to see more than just animals, and this first day in Nairobi opens many eyes and hearts to the hopes and miseries of this wonderful place. You can’t drive to Karen from Nairobi without driving past some slums. And the traffic — what locally we call the “jam” – is an unbelievable reality of modern life in Africa. One porter at the Norfolk Hotel told me it takes him nearly 2 hours each way to commute to work, when five years ago it was only 30 minutes.

Needless to say, everyone was exhausted. Great way, I think, to attack jetlag!

Is Kibo a good company?

Is Kibo a good company?

From TopNotcher22@

Q.    What do you know about Kibo Tours in Tanzania?

A.    Kibo is one of northern Tanzania’s better and more reliable companies, and also one of its more successful businesses, so if you’re planning a safari with them, you’re on the right track.  Like a number of equally good Tanzanian companies, though, it’s two main problems are that it offers no good services in any of the neighboring countries –  such as Kenya or Rwanda – and that it has no representation outside Tanzania.

Ndutu Migration

Ndutu Migration

Our three days ended with a bulls-eye migration find at Ndutu. But a whole lot more, too!

There are several reasons that most safaris don’t overnight in Ndutu, even though that’s the best place to be to see the great wildebeest migration from late November through May. We did spend our last three nights here, and we had an incredible experience, finding the migration and much more.

I’ve always been irritated by so many companies talking about the “Great Wildebeest Migration” and then not truly featuring it, since they bypass Ndutu. Ndutu Lodge is the only permanent lodge in the southern Serengeti grassland plains. There are also many private camping sites. But all the other lodges in the Serengeti are between 3 and 8 hours further north.

Ndutu Lodge is a historic lodge, built by Margaret Gibbs years ago, I think in the 1960s. It has 27 rooms and doesn’t normally take groups. The rooms are very comfortable, but very simple. The public areas are all covered but opened to Lake Ndutu. The staff is old and loyal; the food is OK. It is not “Maasai Versailles” or anything close to it.

Nor does it belong to any chain of hotels like Sopa or Serena or Kempenski, and it doesn’t offer butlers like Grumeti or Klein’s, and charges are incurred for laundry and drinks. But it is almost a wonderful secret, used by those of us in the know who grow nostalgic the moment we leave. It has a fantastic setting, and there is absolutely no better place to stay during the migration.

I used to prefer a private camp, and there are many good sites in the area. But in the last few years the rains have grown heavy when they fall – I mean, really heavy. We like it that way, as do the wildebeest and other animals, and not least the spirits in the sky that produce unbelievable sunrises and sunsets. No matter how good your camp is, it isn’t fun when it rains hard.

So that leaves Ndutu Lodge. We arrived Monday evening after a fabulous journey through the eastern Serengeti north of Olduvai. Twelve days ago this was brown and dusty; now it was green and fresh, little dust. There were literally tens of thousands of Thomson’s Gazelle, some eland and a handful of zebra and wildebeest. The big herds weren’t here as they have been for me in most of the years past. But we enjoyed outstanding views of the Serengeti during our lunch perched on a kopjes opposite Lemuta, and we had the entire day from the moment we left Olduvai completely to ourselves.

We traveled for 6 hours from Shifting Sands, which remarkably was wet and not windy, likely covering about 50 miles. We encountered not a single other vehicle and certainly well over a hundred thousand animals.

We arrived the lodge just before a downpour. It’s exhilarating to be in the Serengeti’s rainy season storms, because there’s plenty of lightning and thunder.

The economy has really dampened tourism, but we talked with the other guests, other drivers and the wonderful Ndutu manager, Colin McConnell, and decided that our best bet for finding the migration was to more or less duplicate what I had done two weeks ago: go south towards Makau.

The heavy rains can shift the herds in a night. For one thing, they hate gushy grounds. And they are driven by a need for food, not water (especially now when it’s everywhere). Dried clumps of grass turn enticingly edible virtually overnight when it rains.

Reviewing my notes of many years I knew that if the locus of the migration weren’t south, that there would still be a lot of wildebeest there. The Ndutu-Makau-Kusini-Ndutu triangle that touches the Kerio Valley to the south, the Moru Kopjes to the north and Hidden Valley to the east, seems never without wildebeest during this season. This is probably because it is one of the flattest sections of plains just north of Ngorongoro, so it captures a lot of moisture. Anyway, this is where we went first. We had a second day if we needed it, to go elsewhere.

I venture there are probably few tourists who buy a “migration safari” who don’t come home and claim they’ve seen the migration. The following day we would travel through great numbers of wildebeest around Naabi Hill, the center of the park and where the main road passes. We’d see several vehicles stopped there on the main road as visitors popped through their opened tops to photograph large herds. But they had no idea!

How many did we find Wednesday morning? It’s really hard to estimate, but presuming that at any given time we would have 30-40,000 wildebeest in view 360 degrees around us, and that we spent several hours moving around this triangle, I’d say a quarter million.

When we stopped and set up breakfast in the middle of the plains, the wilde gave us a wide berth. It was as if we opened a hole on the prairie.

Everyone was famished. Even though all you do is look, it’s incredibly exciting. There was great conversation and much laughing throughout breakfast as Tim, Rob, Judd and Brad tried to sound like gnu!

Thursday we went to the Moru Kopjes, the prettiest part of the Serengeti. Yes, we saw more wildebeest, the same groups that most tourists see, but to us it was a drop in the bucket of what we had ourselves experienced the day before.

What impressed me most this time at Moru was how frightened the elephants were that we encountered. They acted like elephants of old, during the years of poaching. As soon as they saw us, the ears flapped, there was trumpeting, and they high tailed it away running madly. I don’t understand this. I haven’t seen this behavior in years and I hope it doesn’t mean there is poaching, again.

We were unable to visit the Maasai cave paintings, because other visitors were there first: lion! During our three days in the Serengeti we saw over 40 lion, including about a dozen very little cubs and a lioness about to give birth. We watched a leopard on his kill in a tree, and followed a family of 3 cheetah hunt.

And one of the great bonuses was an amazing series of sunrises and sunsets, among the best I can ever remember seeing. Someone remarked that “It’s Photoshop in Real.” Steve Coates said all we have to say at the debriefing is “Oh, my god!” The skies were ludicrously beautiful.

Ndutu and the Serengeti performed for us magnificently.

2-country Safari

2-country Safari

Both Kenya and Tanzania provide attractions not available by the other, but it takes at least one extra day of simple travel to put them together.

We traveled from Kenya to Tanzania, Thursday, from Amboseli to Arusha and finally into Tarangire. It was a long day. Ever since the dispute between Kenya and Tanzania in 1977 which closed their common borders for several years thereafter, there have been only certain places that tourists can cross between the two countries.

Often the easiest way is to fly between Nairobi or Mombasa, and Dar-es-Salaam, Zanzibar, Mwanza or Kilimanjaro. Most safaris fly between Nairobi’s domestic Wilson airport and Kilimanjaro airport in northern Tanzania.

The connection through Wilson is easy, because Wilson is small. But no matter how close your starting and ending cities are from Wilson and Kili, whether or not there are additional flights into or out of those cities, the day is basically shot getting from one country to the other.

In our case we were ending the Kenyan portion at Amboseli with the next game destination being Tarangire. We did this all in one day, picking up Ake Lindstrom and his girlfriend, Nangini, in Arusha to join us for the Tarangire experience.

Ake is a 3rd generation white East African who has decided to buck the trend of leaving his home once educated abroad, and send his roots ever deeper into the place he loves. He founded and runs Summit-Africa, Tanzania’s finest adventure and climbing company.

My group spent a short time in Arusha, changing money, walking around town, and having lunch at the Arusha Hotel. Afterwards, we traveled to the nearby center of Meserani, about a 20-minute drive from Arusha. Sandy Winge was determined to visit the Snake Park, here, to the surprise of her husband, Ken. But like many people who are afraid of snakes, a guided tour is often the best antidote.

The guides at the Meserani Snake facility are excellent, and the group who took the tour didn’t mind missing the shopping time available at the curio store across the street, or the Tinga Tinga Gallery next to the curio store. Bobby Bjork found her dream Tanzanite, here.

It was a short distance from there on a wonderful paved road to the turnoff to Tarangire Treetops, one of the two upmarket lodges that serve Tarangire. Treetops is located just outside the park on its own reserve.

The road into Treetops is pretty bad, and it was the one time on the trip I didn’t wish for rain! About half way through the 80-minute journey we stopped for a “bush pit stop”. I was leading the foray when I flushed out two hyaena about 20 feet away, shouting to Beverly and Carley Flores to get back into the car.

We arrived lovely Treetops at 6:15p, having left Amboseli at 7:15a. It was an interesting day, and folks had time for shopping and non game viewing sightseeing. But it was a long day, unavoidable when connecting the two countries.

Reliable Amboseli

Reliable Amboseli

Amboseli’s situation under Mt. Kilimanjaro insures good game viewing no matter what the weather. But avoid the heavy rains.

We traveled from Tsavo to Amboseli in the requisite armed convoy at 8 a.m. from the Chyulu Gate. This is a pretty anachronistic practice that was instituted in the 1980s when there were many shifta [bandits]. In fact, about a half dozen tourists were killed that decade in this corridor, but there’s been no incident for years.

The drive takes about 1½ hours and includes a few minutes over the interesting Shetani Lava flow, one of the last major volcanic events in Kenya in the last several hundred years.

The route skirts the major border town of Loitokitok which is the nearest any major road comes to Mt. Kilimanjaro. We had been fortunate that the mountain had been out the previous evening, because it was now cloaked in storm clouds.

The area was quite dry. Normally, there would be many fairly mature sun flowers and knee-high corn, but some fields were bone dry, the sticks of the once young corn all that remained. Yet it had down poured the night before, and the typical erosion that is such a problem in Africa, had all but washed out several of our bridges.

I need to mention how bad the roads were. And this main route had been redone only two years ago. At one point when the tourist route linking the parks converged for several kilometers with a main road to Loitokitok, the road became almost unusable despite the fact that the traffic increased tenfold. Kenya’s greatest threat to improving tourism is the state of its roads.

I had told my crew that there as an interesting curio shop on the final stretch into Amboseli, but it had closed because there are so few tourists. No matter, we were besieged by sellers at the Amboseli gate, and quite a lot was bought.

It didn’t take long once inside the park to note that the dry spell had much less effect in the “wild” than in the populated areas we had just driven through. There was just as much dust, but there were also the numerous beautiful swamps that are fed by underground rivers flowing off Kili.

At our first one we positioned the vehicles carefully on the road to get a fantastic experience as more than 30 elephant walked across between our vehicles. They were headed into the swamp to water, and watching the young ones being tucked into the fairly rapidly marching line of massive jumbos was fantastic!

Later that afternoon, Blair Devermont told her driver/guide to “wait a minute, isn’t that something?” In one of the swamps there appeared to be a simple log, but Blair had noticed something else. Sure enough, it was a python that had apparently just swallowed an impala.

Of course everyone else got the word (nowadays by cellphone), so that no one missed it. In my 37 years on safari, I’ve only seen a python a handful of times.

The hippo and buffalo looked a bit distressed, and nowhere near as bad as their cousins we had seen in Tsavo. But everything else, including the lions and elephant, looked fairly good.

No matter what the weather, Amboseli usually provides an uniform game viewing experience. This is because it is essentially a huge soda lake with emerging marshes that are fed by underground rivers coming off Mt. Kilimanjaro. So even when as was the case for us there is a serious dry spell on the veld, Kili never stops pumping down the water.

But at the same time be cautious, because after heavy rains the huge soda pan floods very easily. This usually happens in later April and May. When this happens travel is restricted to only those park roads which the KWS has elevated, and this greatly restricts game viewing.

Begin in Tsavo

Begin in Tsavo

Starting a safari in Tsavo West insures a memorable safari. But don’t drive!

My 60th birthday safari began in Tsavo West at Kilaguni Lodge, in part because it was where my kids, Brad and Elizabeth, had their first safari when they were little, and in part because over the years clients have told me that starting at Kilaguni was the best thing I suggested they do.

Tsavo West is exactly what people imagine Africa to be: endless vistas of scrubland brush, acacia trees and open savannahs. But the surprise of seeing jutting mountains sculpting a Grand Canyon like landscape, including Mt. Kilimanjaro, leaves them breathless.

Kilaguni was Kenya’s first non-hunting game lodge. Now owned by Serena Hotels, the rooms are comfortable if compact, and the original long verandah which overlooks the water holes has been preserved in tact. The vista which greets incoming guests is stunning, and I’ve had more than a few clients forego a game drive to just sit on the verandah taking it all in.

Dining is just off the verandah, and every room looks onto the water holes, so Africa just never stops. An unending parade of Africa marches to and fro. We watched elephant families, baboon troops, zebra herds; waterbuck strut right under the verandah, giraffe spread their legs to drink, every night began with the Verreaux’s eagle owl pruning itself in the spotlights, and hours after we had to leave we heard that a leopard was seen drinking at the water hole in broad daylight.

The first game drive ended at Rhino Ridge with a sundowner, and though a bit windy, my son Brad and nephew Tim rock climbed onto the highest boulder. They were probably a thousand feet above the Athi Valley, and we all watched elephant coming down to drink in a vista that was now nearly as deep as it was wide!

Game viewing in Tsavo was sobering because of the lack of rain that may have begun to reverse while we were there. But all the grazers were in dire shape. Normally buffalo and hippo are too rotund to allow bone structures to appear, but this time there was hardly an animal whose skeleton didn’t show. We saw one dead hippo and another dying under a tree. There just was no grass.

There had been just enough rain in the last several seasons to keep the trees green, and many new leaves created a stunning blue green color over the veld. Browsers like giraffe and elephant were doing just fine, and some of the gazelle were seen browsing as well. The zebra – although grazers – weren’t too bad, and they were chomping the dried long grasses just like horses consume winter hay.

But those animals that would only eat grass, like buffalo and hippo, were dying. Fortunately, very heavy rain fell both of the days we were there. We hope the dry spell has been broken.

But the highlight of the game viewing came as we returned to what was apparently a road kill of a zebra. As we approached, Carley Flores screamed. (Everyone’s allowed one scream, but it’s well known that human sounds disturb wild animals. They don’t mind diesel chugs, screeching ball bearings, car fumes or even whining breaks. But the great variety of human voices is threatening.)

On the road kill zebra was a pride of 9 lion. In the less than 3 hours since we had seen it in the morning most of the zebra was gutted. All that was left were the feet, a small part of the head, the skin and hooves. Even the tail was gone, although hyaena and jackal were yet nowhere to be seen.

A full grown male lion can put down 50 pounds of raw meat. This zebra probably weighed around 500 pounds, of which 400 was sirloin. That’s just about right for a pride of 9 lion. We stayed with the pride for 90 minutes, putting together a fantastic story of the four mature females, the four nearly grown cubs and the grand pride master who stayed far in the distance.

Two of the nearly grown cubs were male. Young males are among the most gorgeous animals on the veld: their manes are sprouting like partially shaved Hollywood stars. They don’t yet have the scars of older males, and their faces are especially beautiful.

But normally they would have been kicked out of the family before they grew larger than their mother. They were definitely already larger than any of the mature females, and there was a lot of tension. As they approached the kill, there was deep growling throughout the whole pride. At least for the short time we were there, the mature females dominated them despite now being smaller.

But the day will come soon when the young male tries to mate. They will have to overcome the pride master, first, which would be a real feat, but if they did, their mothers will fight to the death before succombing.

Why were they still there? The only answer I could come up with is that the distressed situation on the veld is compromising a lot of normal animal behavior. We saw, for instance, mixed herds of impala. Normally impala are strictly found in all male (bachelor) herds, or in large harem herds with only one harem master. Yet several times we found mixed herds.

Elephant families do come together to water, dig for water, or to travel. But we found elephant families sharing the same tree shade for their midday naps. That’s quite unusual. I have to conclude that the dry spell, which we think is now ending, has somehow contributed to this anomalous behavior.

The game drive ended as we stopped the cars for a half hour at sunset and enjoyed sundowners. The start of the rainy season means gigantic cloud formations, distant rain and the beautiful flute-like cry of the rain birds like the crimson breasted shrike. I watched Steve Coates holding his Tusker but forgetting to drink as he stared endlessly into the beautiful African horizon.

We had heard that the “new road” between Nairobi and Mombasa made the road journey to Tsavo easy. Not true. The road isn’t done. It is only done from Machakos south, and the journey from Nairobi city is excruciating. Until this highway really is done, I’ll be flying from now on.

We left Tsavo newly excited. It seemed to everyone that things just couldn’t get better!

Must-Do Nairobi

Must-Do Nairobi

A safari without Nairobi misses a lot. But don’t arrive during the day on a weekday!

I know that a lot of people come to East Africa just to see the animals. There are many safaris that do little else. But never mine.

My 60th birthday safari began with three days in Nairobi. And we didn’t have enough time. There are attractions that personally I could do without, but which I realize are so famous that someone investing in seeing Nairobi probably expects to see.

Giraffe Manor is where the endangered Rothschild Giraffe is protected, in the nearby suburb of Karen. Beverly Settle-Flores was the first to hold an animal food pellet in her mouth which the oldest giraffe there, Daisy, dutifully plucks out with her elongated tongue. Sandy and Ken Winge both saddled up behind Daisy and got their photographs taken as if rocking Daisy’s enormous head.

I use the fun and games to explain the miracles of a giraffe’s anatomy: the remarkable tongue which has evolved through millennia to not just strip tiny acacia leaves from their branches, but to tolerate the impressive acacia thorns; the “second heart”, or two-chamber stop valve that exists halfway up their neck so that the blood pumped up doesn’t sink down; and the unusual gate, unique to camels and giraffe.

Nearby is the Kazuri Beads Womens Cooperative. Kazuri is one of the most successful Kenyan “Harambee” or self-help projects, and its remarkable success has truly freed more than 100 single moms from the constraints of slum poverty. My wife, Kathleen, doesn’t only proudly wear a variety of Kazuri jewelry, but one of dinner sets is Kazuri. It’s great fun to see the process, including the long tables in the main workroom filled with women working and chatting, dressed as colorfully as the beads they’re making.

East African curios and other art work is definitely spectacular, and no wonder given that the earning margin is so high and opportunities for more traditional employment so limited. A typical Kazuri beads necklace sells for $20-30. As much as half of that gets back in total to the women who produced it. (The other half is for direct administrative and material costs.) That’s far higher, for example, than what an artisan selling in the bush gets for his work, where usually 80-90% of what the tourists pays never gets past the middle men. (The chain of sale includes the original collector who scours the countryside, then the shop owner who inventories the items, and finally the actually person who sells it.)

Nearby is the single attraction in Karen that I would make mandatory: the Karen Blixen homestead and museum. But I concede that it really depends upon getting a good guide, or alternatively, having done your own homework well before.

This is Karen Blixen’s original (second) home in Kenya. It is the setting for her famous book Out of Africa. It isn’t just the wonder of stepping back almost a century into old kitchens and steel bathtubs; it’s the much broader history and anecdotes of the time that bring to life colonial Kenya.

We ended our time in Kenya at a welcome cocktail party at the Exchange Bar of the Stanley Hotel. Two out of every five pieces of furniture in this beautifully restored colonial bar are original. This is where the colonists played during the weekend, and it was a pretty rough crowd! (Read White Mischief.)

And my favorite attraction of all is the newly renovated National Museum. I always used the museum — even in its most decrepit days — as a foundation for numerous topics including elephant poaching, cultural diversity and especially, early man. The new early man exhibit is stellar.

I don’t think there is another museum in the world that would put on display 6 actual hominid fossils, including its star attraction, Turkana Boy, which is one of only three nearly complete hominid skeleton fossils in existence. The room gives me goose bumps every time I enter it. Steve and Maren Coates both remarked that they could spend an entire day in the museum.

And there is much more. I wish we could have scheduled the 11 a.m. feeding of the orphaned elephants at the Daphne Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage near the Kenya Wildlife Service headquarters. Just walking down Nairobi’s streets is a feast for the eyes. From grand Kenyatta Avenue with its skyscrapers to Biashara Lane at the old city market where the early traders shouted out commodity prices before there was a Nairobi stock exchange, the recognition that Nairobi is a mixture of the very old and very new is ever present.

Get a shoe shine for $5 opposite the beautiful city mosque. Get any book you’ve ever wanted about Africa at the Stanley Bookshop. Have the finest seafood dinner at the extraordinary Tamarind restaurant. And if you’ve forgotten anything essential, like toothpaste or writing paper or a cell phone, walk through the 24-7 super Nakumat, Nairobi’s unbelievably giant superstore. Yes, they take credit cards!

But as I’ve written before, don’t arrive during the day of a weekday. Nairobi traffic is also unbelievable. A normal 20-minute journey from the airport to the city center could take you two hours! Make sure you arrive at night or during the weekend. Fortunately, everyone on my safari except Judd and Blair Devermont did so. They arrived at Saturday noon. That wasn’t as bad as during a weekday, but it still took us nearly an hour!

Location,Location,Loc…

Location,Location,Loc…

Successful safari days have as much to do with where you’re staying at the end of the day, as what you’ve seen on your game drives.

We spent the last two days at Hatari Lodge in Arusha National Park. Some of my clients had been with me in Kenya for 6 days and others were just joining us. I was concerned that those who had already experienced great game viewing in Kenya might be a bit disappointed with the somewhat limited game viewing of Arusha National Park, but I was wrong.

“I never expected this!” Shelly Lazarus told me. Many of my clients are repeaters, but this was Shelly’s first safari. She was traveling with Ned Grossman, and this is his third safari with me, but Ned was equally impressed.

Hatari is located contiguous with the national park, a couple hundred meters from the park gate. It sits in the towering shadow of Mt. Meru with a huge 5-acre back yard which is a grassland plains usually occupied by buffalo and giraffe. Giraffe often wander right onto the pathways of the lodge to nip the juicy tips of the beautiful fever trees that landscape the lodge grounds.

Arusha National Park is a big game wilderness which surrounds Mt. Meru, Africa’s 5th highest mountain which rises behind Arusha town. There are developed farms all around the park so it’s almost impossible to take a game drive without seeing farm houses and workers in the not-too-distant horizon.

But the park is a beautiful rain forest with many small crater lakes that always have some wonderful bird life, often hundreds of flamingoes. We happened to be there when the flamingoes were breeding, so there were thousands of them. We found the rare turacos and gorgeous colobus monkeys in the dense forests.

Many of us joke that this is “Giraffic Park” because there are so many giraffe, because there are no lions. There are leopard, although fewer and fewer, and only a few night hooting hyaena. So the park is relatively predator free, and that allows the successful animals like giraffe, buffalo and bushbuck, to prosper.

I especially like the walks that are now well established and led by decent ranger/guides. Climbers take 3 days to summit Meru, but in 4 hours you can hike through some gorgeous rain forest and then step onto the lava field around the fascinating ash cone which finally ended Meru’s rain as a volcano in 1913.

Two of my clients, Illinois farmers, George and Nancy Halley, loved the walk but admitted that coming from the flatlands the 9,000-foot elevation did make things a bit slow going at times. In contrast, recently graduated Alison Eckenhoff who lives in Boulder, Colorado, didn’t miss a breath!

But what I realized this time was that the success of these two days wasn’t just the park, it was as much where the group stayed. Hatari Lodge is a beautiful creation of Joerg and Marliese Gabriel, who took a basic somewhat forgotten property and turned it one of the finest boutique safari lodges on the circuit.

The original property was part of the 1959 John Wayne film, Hatari. It was then a simple unused farmhouse. Fifteen years later it was turned into a very simple lodge by Stephie Leach and Baron Burt von Muteus. They called it Oldonyo Orok [“Black Rock” in Maasai, referring to towering Mt. Meru]. The Arusha couple didn’t market it very well, and it could never handle more than 16 people at a time when safari groups were normally in the twenties and thirties, so it remained something of a secret escape for smaller groups.

Several good American safari companies, like EWT and Mountain Travel, used the property extensively, but it was very basic. I remember having to caution my groups at the time about the “facilities.” A group of more than 10 couldn’t sit around the little, round dining room table that was squeezed into one corner of the single tiny public room. The tiny, tiny bedrooms each had a very compact shower and toilet, that “usually” worked.

But there was a beautiful long verandah that overlooked the current “back yard”, almost always with giraffe and buffalo. And to wake up in the morning in the shadow of gigantic Mt. Meru was worth any slight inconvenience in comfort.

Marliese and Joerg changed this in the early 2000s. They built on the Hatari theme, an extremely romantic and comfortable place to come after a hard day on safari. New individual and spacious bedrooms and large bathrooms were built, somewhat Art Deco and minimalist, but marvelously engineered by Joerg. The living room and bar are long and elegant and attached to the absolutely necessary outside verandah overlooking the game-filled “back yard.” Being contiguous with the park and without fencing, the animals in Hatari’s backyard are the animals in the park.

The secret Oldonyo Orok, spectacularly located which you paid for with a bit of inconvenience, became the masterful Hatari Lodge.

This is unusual in East Africa. The better and more comfortable lodges and camps are often not in good locations, as Hatari is. Throughout the normal safari circuits the properties in the best locations tend to be the mass tourism lodges rather than the luxury boutique ones. This is because the mass tourism lodges were the first built and understandably in the best locations for game viewing.

Luxury boutique properties came much later, well after photography safaris had been established. The original mass tourism lodges didn’t need to wow clients with gourmet food and stylish bathrooms. In the old days, the adventure of coming to Africa was so compelling you were awestruck just by the fact that your toilet actually flushed! Or that you even had one!

Today, there are more than twice as many boutique safari camps and lodges like Hatari as original mass circuit ones like the Sopas and Serenas. But in the vast majority of cases they came too late to get the best locations. Hatari is an exception.

Safari Club?

Safari Club?

Should the Mt. Kenya Safari Club be on your safari?

We are spending tonight at the Mt. Kenya Safari Club, having just completed a fantastic short Kenyan safari in the Aberdare Mountains (Aberdare Country Club & The Ark) and in Samburu (at Larsen’s Camp). For years my clients have been fiercely divided on whether the Safari Club should be included on their itinerary.

On the one hand it was always a beautiful place, a wonderful way to “catch your breath” between intensely scheduled days game viewing. And on the other, it meant you had to trade away a precious day of new adventures in the Kenyan bush for something easily had back home.

I respect that gusto but in some respects it greatly reduces an East African experience. Coming here should be much more than just a safari to see animals. East African society is one of the most interesting on earth. The skyrocketing transition of traditional life ways into the quagmire of the modern world is fascinating, and even a brief experience grows our global perspective in very important ways.

To me, Nairobi is a must, and not just as a quick overnight positioning before heading to a game park. Visiting community development projects, like the Kazuri Beads and (near the Safari Club) Nanyuki Weavers reveals a side to Kenyan life many visitors never anticipate. Rather than flying everywhere, I fervently believe you’ve got to drive at least a little, to see from the road the everyday lives of East Africans. I don’t think we should tolerate a vacation where you travel in a bubble made of your own comforts and securities.

And given these tenants of good travel, the Safari Club works masterfully into an itinerary. Its location is perfect for ending an overland safari. In a single day you can begin in a desert among traditional peoples struggling into modernity, climb through the immigrant Islamic town of Isiolo, whiz on the highway by Kenya’s largest and very successful corporate farms, visit the Nanyuki Weavers self-help project and enjoy Nanyuki town’s legendary Settlers’ Stores samosas. After all that cultural and visual overload, the free afternoon at the Safari Club is perfect!

But it seems like the Club’s current owner, Fairmont, is struggling. The new rooms are truly lovely, but the water doesn’t drain any quicker from the bathtub than before, making two baths before dinner a scheduling difficulty. The electricity was off for an hour when we arrived. And the food isn’t very good. This has always been a problem with the Safari Club, but last night my clients had to go through several knives to try to cut the steak, and the chicken looked (and one person said, tasted) like Plaster-of-Paris. To top off our dinner angst, the old piano player is still there, and just like before, he’d clear a 4th grade recital hall in a blink.

But the greatest put-off are the prices Fairmont is charging for incidentals. A bottle of water, $1 in the grocery store, is $12. A couple cocktails can top $20. A “3 Hour Nature Walk” – which you can easily do by yourself on beautiful trails – is almost $50. These aren’t prices you’d squint at in San Francisco, but hey guys, this is Kenya.

When Fairmont bought the Lonrho properties several years ago, there was great hope. And they’ve redone the Norfolk beautifully. But they’ve abandoned completely two important chinks in the safari circuit: The Ark and the Aberdare Country Club. You can’t even find these properties on the Fairmont website. This is Kenya, much more than the Safari Club.

I applaud Fairmont for trying to move Kenya forwards. I just wonder if Kenya is moving Fairmont backwards.

Safari Traffic Jam

Safari Traffic Jam

Never start your safari in Nairobi on a weekday morning.

I estimate there are 120-140,000 cars that try to get into Nairobi’s downtown area each morning, on only four roads into the city. The west and north sides aren’t impossible, but the east and south sides which include access to the international airport, are horrible.

It’s not a good way to begin a safari vacation. From about 6:15a to 10:30a, what should be a 20-minute, 10-12 mile journey, becomes a 90-120 minute, 10-12 mile journey.

The fumes are horrendous. The road, although newly built from the airport, is inadequate, with many parts not totally completed, cars and road rage vying for supremacy. I’ve spoken to hotel staff at the Norfolk who must leave home at 3 a.m. to begin work at 8 a.m.

And if you’re a tourist looking forward to a super safari, it’s hardly the best way to begin. I haven’t usually recommended certain air carriers over others, but whatever difference may exist, it doesn’t matter. You want to arrive at night, or during the weekend. Anything else is unmitigated disaster. Nothing else matters.

The poor workers who must get into Nairobi and who can drive must now pay Ksh 1400/- per day to park anywhere in the city center. That’s around $15-17 per day that goes straight to the Nairobi City Council. For a typical business office worker, that’s a quarter to a half of the entire salary.

So it goes to show that there are rich people in this society, but even speculating that there are as many as 3 people per private vehicle parked in the city center, it’s a small if fractional percentage of the millions of poor and unemployed.

But for visitors coming on safari, avoid the horror of being a part of this. Make sure you arrange to arrive only at night or during Saturday or Sunday.

Visiting a Village

Visiting a Village

Is not what you think.

Throughout the entire continent of Africa, there are so-called “traditional villages” that will welcome the visitor… for a fee.

In truth there very few traditional African societies left on the continent. In the southeast Sudan, in western Ethiopia, in the densest jungles of central Africa, on the border of Namibia and Angola, and in the more remote areas of the NCA and Serengeti, there are a few traditional societies although not even these are without modern conveniences like cell phones. This is a tiny, tiny fraction of the colorful and fascinating contemporary societies which visitors will experience on any trip into the African bush, and I am continually amazed that visitors to Africa expect to see instead the 1954 Encyclopedia Britannica Maasai boma.

It has been at least 30 years, and in most places much longer, since there were truly traditional societies available for the majority of tourists to experience.

In part this expectation is the result of many local operators promoting this fantasy. And that’s understandable. At an average of $20 a pop, a so-called traditional village can earn a rather nicely sum of money. And my experience has been that this money is often well used, and I praise Ngei every time I realize when one of my clients hands over a $20 bill to a “village” African, that they are not handing it to a local politician.

So what are these so-called “villages?”

I suppose the best way to describe them is as “Living History Sites.” We have a great living history site near my home near the Mississippi River: the Apple River Fort. This is where Chief Blackhawk attacked white settlers in 1832. Everyday (well that is, every day until Blagojevich raped the state history site budget) local enthusiasts would dress up in early settler clothing, churn butter, harvest chickens and talk to visitors about the imminent Indian attack. That’s what a visitor to Africa will see, today.

I remember recently accompanying under duress a group of my clients to a village in Samburu. I noticed immediately that the “villagers” were the waiters at our camp, having discarded their Chinese style silk light green waiter blouses and neat wrinkle-free nylon pants for some Maasai blankets and auto tire sandals. And, remarkably, they were even painted up in traditional ways. They had to have acted with incredible speed, because we had just finished breakfast. Anyway, I winked at the guide, who winked back.

We proceeded through the guided conversation of how the chief had 460 wives and 5,902 children, and let everyone go into a smoky little hut to see how wonderful it was to sleep next to a baby goat, and then finally it was ending as we approached the “blacksmith”. That struck me as rather interesting, since what I remembered was that the Samburu tribe actually didn’t have blacksmiths, but used the neighboring Boran tribe to forge their spears. Anyway, we watched this poor kid trying desperately to start a fire rubbing two twigs, together. He looked up at me and said woefully, “Zamani, Mzee, tuna kibiriti!” Roughly translated, “A long time ago, Mzee, we used matches!”

Anyway, everyone had a very good time and got very good pictures.

What is actually much more interesting is where these societies are right now. How that resourceful kid who handed me my perfectly cut melon then raced back to play act what he thought his ancestors used to do, helping his town earn a bit more money. Even more interesting, how agrarian societies are coping with an impending desert and climate change, how important and vital education is to every single one of them, the effects of brain drain, the breakdown of tribalism, the capacity for language manipulation and understanding that only these multi-multi-language societies are capable of achieving.

“Sheng” is an entirely new language being spoken by practically everyone under 25 in East Africa. Even the advertisements in the newspapers that are directed to young people are often written in Sheng. “Fanagalo” is another entirely new language spoken by the miners in South Africa. These new ways of communicating between multiple tribes with their own entirely different languages reflect the many amalgams of social life ways occurring in Africa, and it is truly astounding! The speed at which Africa emerged from a traditional way of life into the modern world has thrust peoples who were as different as Yoda and Romeo into the same tiny room, and in the blink of an eye, they’ve got to figure out ways not only of talking to one another, but of living and working together. That’s why there have been some rough times, like during elections. But as with Sheng and Fanagalo there are just as many if not more fascinating everyday aspects to these colorful societies in transition to modernity.

So enjoy the Living History Site, but don’t presume it’s more than that. And don’t ignore the really fascinating and exciting aspects to the true, contemporary cultures you are guaranteed to see.

Don’t Bring Gifts

Don’t Bring Gifts

This is not the way to help.

One of the most frequent questions I get from clients preparing to go on safari is, What can I bring as a present?

My answer is, Nothing.

This blog is a more sensitive explanation of this, and it’s not as easy as the curt reply above might suggest. There are two basic reasons that I discourage arriving safari clients from attempting small acts of charity.

The first is that single acts of giving can be dangerously counter-productive, producing exactly the long-term effect it intends to alleviate.

I will never forget pulling out of a gas station at Karatu, just south of Ngorongoro Crater, with another company’s Landrover just ahead of us. No one was going very fast, because we were just starting out. But before we knew it, we had hit a young boy who had run onto the road in front of us, seemingly for no good reason. We really couldn’t figure it out, and fortunately, we were going so slowly that he didn’t seem to be hurt very much. In fact, he was screaming that we let him go as we tried to examine him for injuries.

The minute he pulled away from us, he ran back to where he had been hit, and scooped up several small paper wrapped hard candies. Candies, apparently, that someone in the car ahead of us had thrown carelessly out the window.

From that day on, I realized that it could be physically dangerous for clients to try to dispense anything at all. Had that traveler alternatively tried to hand it out to a small group of needy children who gather around the cars as they’re being filled with gas, he or she might have sustained the injury instead of the child! There is usually very little decorum among a group of kids in need. That presumption may have motived that traveler to throw the candy out the window as his car began to move away.

This happened years ago, but for me it was an epiphany. It provoked me to examine very carefully my long-held reluctance to assist clients with any charity whatever. It helped me put into focus an intuition which I believe is very, very correct.

A single instance of dispersing a gift can be not just miserly, but deadly. First, candy is about the worst thing you can give children who are under nourished. It destroys their already fragile GI system, it makes them even more hyper and irrational, and produces none of the expected “happiness” I presume clients want to achieve. Even a high energy granola bar might be bad, depending upon what that poor child has been eating and is capable of digesting. And if the two foregoing concerns don’t apply, then the kid certainly doesn’t need candy for the same reasons most kids don’t need candy.

But the more important point is that it really doesn’t matter if it’s candy or a Laptop. What I have tried to explain, over and over again, is that regardless of the contextual need – poverty, hunger, bad water, illiteracy – single acts of giving are usually more destructive than no giving at all. It can be dangerous to raise expectations that can change behavior. If a child in Karatu expects to get a bandana or tennis ball every so often from a tourist vehicle stopping to get gas, it is likely he will skip school to do so. And if he misses school, he won’t improve his station in life, and he will never emerge from his cycle of dependency.

The cycle of dependency is a dangerous situation. Unfortunately, it has morphed from the single incident of a child missing school in the hopes of getting a present, to entire Third World economies failing to plan properly as they expect packages of co-optive aid that never totally reaches their needs. Nobel Laureate, Muhammad Yunus, the founder of the Grameen Bank in Bangladesh, puts it this way in an interview in Ode Magazine:

“What all these pop stars and politicians want is the usual recipe: charity. But charity is not the way to help people in need; it is not a healthy basis for a relationship between people. If you want to solve poverty, you have to put people in a position to build their own life…

“The approach [many take] to poverty is thwarted by our fixed convictions: Poor people are helpless, unhealthy, illiterate and thus stupid, they have nothing, they know nothing, we must take care of them, we must give them food… It is completely wrong to think like this. I am convinced that poor people are just as human as anyone else. They have just as much potential as anyone…”

So is there nothing that you can bring on your trip, to give as a present, to help?

No. The least damaging attempt which I tolerated for a few years was collections of school supplies that could be given to a school directly. But even that is probably a bad idea. What is so misunderstood, is that everything that a traveler might wish to give can have such extraordinary value in the bush, that it rarely gets used as it’s intended: Rather, it will be traded, and when in the hands of a child, generally traded for something that has more immediate value, like candy, or glue to sniff, or some other instantaneous gratification. A box of school supplies given out piecemeal to children is about as productive as sowing your garden from a hot air balloon.

And even more ironically, if it is used as intended and successfully so, then when it’s gone it’s considered indispensable! Even when accepted with gracious pomp from a responsible school official, it might still have a bad long-term effect. What happens once that box of supplies is used up? Often the answer is depressing. Not only the children, but the teachers as well, sit on their hands until a new box arrives. If it doesn’t, learning stops.

There is a second more philosophical, and perhaps more important reason. I go back to my old mentor, Herbert Marcuse, whose theory of co-optive liberation can be as exactly applied to this discussion as to macro social politics: Marcuse.org. With apologies for likely destroying his greater ideas with this reduction, let me try to summarize Marcuse in terms of a traveler coming to Africa who wants to give something away:

(1) The need the traveler presumes exists in Africa exists right at his home. Poverty, hunger, ignorance – most of us can find it pretty close to our residential address, certainly closer to us than Africa. Yes, it may exist to a greater extent in Africa, but certainly the small act of charity the traveler has in mind would have no greater impact in Africa than in the slum in the city nearest his home, right? So why wait for Africa to affect this generosity? Are the poor kids in Watts less needy than in Karatu?

(2) All the combined charity in the world has actually not stopped the slippage into greater poverty and hunger. It keeps getting worse. So all our combined efforts, individual and aggregate, aren’t working. The sums are documented in numerous places:
John Hopkins Univ.
Indiana Univ.
Boston College

So why do we continue? We do so, because it makes us feel good. Invariably I field the argument, “But at least it helped that one school for a day.” As I tried to point out above, you can’t reduce the problem to individual immediate incidents without compromising the more important long-term. It may have helped that school for the day, but it probably really hurt that school for the term. It doesn’t take a lot of thought to understand this. And yet there is this dogmatic individual certainty that giving is good in all cases. It is good, as Marcuse would point out, for ourselves, and by so doing it relieves us of the very natural human instinct to help one another. So we co-opt the visceral intuition to help, by doing something that in the larger perspective doesn’t help at all except to relieve ourselves of the feeling that we need to help.

(3) Basically, the problems we would like to solve have become so enormous that there is no hope of solving them through individual or even collective charity. When a remedy occurs, it will undoubtedly rely on individual initiative, but it will be overseen and vastly underwritten by governments to governments. Only governments are big enough to tackle these urgent problems. In 2007, total worldwide charity approached $400 billion. But the OECD (Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, a UN agency) has time and again affirmed its “10-15″ prescription necessary for making (only) black Africa self-sufficient: 10-15% of the developed world’s budget given as directed aid to Africa for 10-15 years. 10-15% of the developed world’s budget is at least 25-50 times total worldwide charity, and much of that world-wide charity would do nothing for black Africa. Africa is only part of the needy world. And this is a prescription that must continue for 10-15 years! Just for Africa!

Marcuse argues so well that individual initiative often co-opts that citizen’s necessary ascension to his government’s need to act. There’s a feeling – so deadly wrong and especially in America – that individuals, and not governments, are the answer.

People are beginning to realize this. One easy-read explanation is by Tim Harford, a Financial Times columnist, in his recent book, The Logic of Life (available at Amazon.com). I think, though, that a thumbnail sketch of his themes has been better reduced by Slate.com.

Charity, especially again in America, has become selfish, because it has been so personally internalized and individual. The world is just too complex. The tiny piece of candy you might wish to give a child in Africa, might just end up killing him. The box of school supplies you’d like to leave with the Headmaster may doom all 40 children in his class to poverty for the rest of their lives. Rather, help those in need at home and help your government work better so that it can help the world.

Preparing for Safari

Preparing for Safari

You have to get ready sooner than you think!

The time and money that people invest in a major trip like an African safari is considerable, and yet I’m continually amazed at how poorly this investment is sometimes treated.

I’ve written before about the importance of keeping the investment whole by additional purchases such as good binoculars and proper clothing and gear; and of the importance of actually reading some of the things the companies send you, as well as learning a bit about the history, society and geography of the areas you’re going to visit.

But perhaps the greatest infraction comes just a few days before this great experience is to begin. It seems like the greater the experience, the more the traveler tries to compact his work and social schedule just before going. And the result is often packing the night before and racing onto the first plane just in the nick of time, dead tired from compounded work the week before.

This is a recipe for catastrophe.

Packing too soon before you’re scheduled to leave is symptomatic of a serious negligence of how much you’ve invested in this “great experience.” It means that you likely won’t have the right clothes or gear, because those are discoveries usually made when packing. You’ll probably discover that the carry-on isn’t considered a carry-on, anymore, and that you won’t get it through London customs. So you’ll end up checking both bags; they’ll then both be delayed, and you’ll end up with one set of clothes for 12 days. Even if you get the bags, you’ll probably have forgotten things like sun screen, so you’ll fry. You’ll have forgotten “little things,” like your digital camera and passport.

Packing for trips is actually an art. There are usually all sorts of restrictions on weight and size of what you can bring, and it’s not something you can expect to do at the last minute.

This trip is “so long” and “so important to you” and you’ve “spent so much money on this” that you’re going to try to make up for the extravagance before you go. You’ll work overtime at the office, clear the calendar by doubling up appointments the week or two before, go on a crash diet so that you don’t have to worry at the buffets, and basically run both your body and your mind down to a puddle.

Not very smart. Your immune system will be so run down that the moment you step onto that virus carrier, you’re doomed. Long airplane rides are as bad as lacerating yourself in a pig farm in Iowa in the summer. Planes are tubes of viruses. If you’re stressed out, tired and in poor physical or psychological condition, you’re going to succumb to colds and flu.

The science is terrifying. A consortium of seven universities has formed a project to filter the anecdotal into real science and the message is clear: the more stressed out you are before your big trip, the more likely you are to get sick on the trip.

No WebMD or collection of medications is going to help the sap who won’t help himself. No fool-hearty sleeping pill or DVT Christmas basket of gingers and amphetamines can replace simple common sense. Plan ahead. Begin your preparation a month before you go.

A MONTH BEFORE
Set aside a quiet hour or so every few days to re-read everything carefully about your trip. You might find something particularly interesting that a good book will enhance… if you have the time to buy the good book before you leave. You might have missed that reference to malaria medication. Maybe you missed the notification that it was going to be very cold, when you presumed it was always going to be hot. Passports, visas, health certificates, airline tickets… all ordered and in a safe place, right?

THREE WEEKS BEFORE
Complete all your household responsibilities: bills to be paid, post office notifications, extra keys, pet arrangements. Check your calendar to make sure you’ve not inadvertently scheduled something during the trip, and that you’re comfortable with what awaits you when you return home. Planning everything so well advance, you’ll now have time to start reading a few of the local newspapers from where you’re going, now on the internet.

TWO WEEKS BEFORE
Critical time, now. The most important thing of all is to check on your upcoming flights… in advance with a little twist. It should be rather simple to check on your actual flights. But note especially for international flying, that daily schedules are not as likely to reflect well how you’ll fly, as weekly schedules. So, for example, if you’re flying from San Francisco to London on a Thursday night, check out how that specific flight on the Thursday this week did. Not how it will do, but how it actually did. On time? Late? Cancelled? This will be a clue as to how easy, or hard, it’s going to be for you. If there’s a problem, call your ticketing agent to discuss the contingencies that apply… This is also the week you pack! Yes, pack! Your suitcase should be zipped up a week before you go, and you should take several days to do it, preferably at a casual time of your day, like after dinner, far from work.. Do it methodically: one night for clothing, one night for gear. With at least one weekend available before you leave, you’ll have time to remedy anything you’ve forgotten.

A WEEK TO GO
If you’ve followed this schedule, you’re ready to go right now if you had to. But this week is critical for not screwing up. If you’ve got a party or special meeting planned, go easy on the hors d’oeuvres. Forget about that third glass of wine. Take it easy. Eat less and drink less, keep yourself well hydrated, exercise a lot and get plenty of sleep. Getting your body limber and lean before that god awful flight will take you through it a lot easier.

POSTPONE THE PARTY
The airport and the plane are the two worst places to party. The temptations are great, to be sure. You’ve finally made it, with your zipped suitcase, and your guidebook and medications, and you’re on time! It’s not over yet, Charlie. Booze it up or eat too much on the plane, and you’re toast for the rest of the trip. So stay business-like, eat as little and drink even less alcohol, all the while keeping yourself massively hydrated.

Now, you’ll be just fine for that week in the Caribbean!

Beware TripAdvisor!

Beware TripAdvisor!

TripAdvisor is no expert.

This title doesn’t mean not to use TripAdvisor and the many other similar sites. I mean exactly what I say, “Beware.”

Most of these sites are used by travelers who have visited some place less than a few times. The vast majority of posts are by persons who are reviewing some place after a single visit. If you decide to trust their subjectivity, consider how you might expect that same person to review your own home town at different times of the year, or coincidentally during the hurricane, or during the drought or just after the cops closed the neighborhood to look for the serial killer (the only crime you’ve had in generations).

That’s the first reason to “BEWARE.” Anecdotal reviews are just that. They are itsy-bitsy tiny impressions of a place that changes throughout the year, blossoms and dies, and is subject to all the same problems that beguile anywhere: politics, social changes like strikes or pay raises, unusual weather and so many other variables. But, you counter, what if I read a dozen reviews of the same places at different times of the year? Then you’re getting close to a more reasonable and true review. BUT

The second reason to “BEWARE” is that these are not anonymous reviews. They are reviews by people who want to review. Their motivation might be for the greater good, but that’s unlikely. They’re either so excited that they don’t know who to tell, or they don’t have anyone else to tell. Usually the people who post reviews are the least subjective of travelers. The motivation to post is driven more by ego than common good. They want everyone to know they had a good time (even if they didn’t) or they really want to stick it to some one or some place they feel did them a wrong. Without knowing the motivation for someone posting a review, BEWARE.

The third reason to “BEWARE” is that a traveling consumer is rarely the right person to review where consumers travel. That’s right. I’m saying that the user is not the expert. The expert is someone who knows all the lodges and hotels, all the places, so that a true perspective can be created. The expert is neither overwhelmed or disgusted when the consumer is. Moreover, the expert knows not only the greater lay of the land, but the history. Believe it or not, more than 90% of every traveler we’ve taken to East Africa in the last 35 years ranks the best place they visited as their first place on the trip. This reflects their enjoyment and excited at getting started and it isn’t a good review of that place. It’s a reflection of ego, not analysis.

The final and very important reason to “BEWARE” is that many, many of these reviews are simply dead-out wrong. The blanket statements I’ve read, for instance, about the rainy seasons, the cost, the politics and so much more, are often so inaccurate as to make me explode. There is no due diligence in much of what is written. I read one review on a site that said Crater Lodge is nice but has poor service because the Tanzanian company that owns it doesn’t pay its employees enough. Crater Lodge is owned by South Africans, not Tanzanians, and many travelers there get upset with the recommended tipping explained to them on arrival. That’s a separate issue. It might be wrong to recommend such high tipping, but it shouldn’t reflect back that the employees are paid poorly. As a matter of fact, they’re the most highly paid lodge employees in northern Tanzania. This was rather specific and easily explained away. But remarks about weather, society and politics, game viewing and cost, are usually so out of whack with the truth that it would be laughable were it not simply so untruthful.

I would make the broad generalization that as regards East Africa, most of the reviews on TripAdvisor are incorrect if not outright wrong and terribly misleading.

BEWARE, folks. Enjoy the read, but find an expert to help you out, too.