By Conor Godfrey
The situation in Mali gets more complicated every day.

As predicted in an earlier blog, regional and national bodies are moving (slowly) toward a negotiated solution to the governance crisis brought on by the March 22nd coup.

The North, however, is a total mess.

The French defense minister called Northern Mali a West African Afghanistan.

That is too alarmist, but the situation certainly calls for some alarm.

There are half a dozen players in Northern Mali at the moment, but they can generally be corralled into two camps – Tuareg nationalists, and Islamic fundamentalists.

(This obviously soothes over some nuances.) Of course, to confuse matters, all of the Tuareg nationalists are Muslim, and many of the fundamentalists are Tuareg.

Put simply, the Tuareg nationalists, led by the National Movement for the Liberation of Azawad (MNLA), demand recognition of the independent republic of Azawad in Northern Mali as the Tuareg homeland.

The Islamic Fundamentalists, led by Ansar Dine (loosely “Defenders of the Faith”), demand the implementation of Islamic law across Mali.

They have also declared allegiance to al-Qaeda, and can be seen as a Qaeda franchise similar to AL-Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM).

So the obvious compromise was tentatively reached on May 26th – the two groups merged and declared independence for the independent state of Azawad, and announced that the Koran would be the basis for Azawad’s legal system.

The point here is that a group openly aligned with al-Qaeda now controls territory the size of France.

Luckily or unluckily, I think the marriage between the Tuareg nationalists and the Qaeda sympathizers will collapse under the weight of its own contradictions.

No sooner had their deal been signed did the two sides begin spinning the agreement to their respective constituencies. (In fact, there are rumors as I am writing this that the pact has already been called off.)

One spokesperson for the Tuareg nationalists (MNLA) hedged as follows: “The Koran will be a source of the laws of the state…but we will apply the things we want and leave aside those we don’t. It will not be a strict application of the law.” (Source)

While the MNLA spokespeople were all assuring domestic supporters and foreign analysts of their moderation and anti-terror agenda, their new partners Ansar Dine were busy beating female protesters, whipping people out of bars, and banning soccer.

Banning soccer of course led to the largest protests.

In this power struggle, any sane person is routing for the Tuareg nationalist elements to prevail.

Once the government stops imploding in Bamako they will at least be able to negotiate with the MNLA.

Conceivably, a strong government in Bamako backed by an implicit ECOWAS or French military threat could make the Tuaregs settle for drastically increased autonomy and other perks. (Whether this is fair or not is a different question.)

If Ansar Dine and AQIM marginalize the Tuareg nationalists however, then Bamako and/or the region will be obligated to solve the conflict by force.

There is little room for compromise with abject fundamentalism.

Using force will spin off other problems such as increasing the distrust and dislike between Tuareg civilians and the rank and file of the Malian army.

The MNLA has about 1,000 fighters at its command, while Ansar Dine and AQIM have approximately 500 a piece.

Unfortunately, the Islamists are much better armed and funded than their MNLA partners cum rivals. (Source)

The main hope for the MNLA and other Tuareg nationalists is that the civilian Tuareg population in Northern Mali (or Azawad if you wish) has no interest in Ansar Dine’s social program.

They may have welcomed Ansar Dine momentarily as a cure for the total lawlessness of the military campaign, but in general, Tuareg Muslims like to attend a soccer match from time to time, and have little appetite for returning to 7th century Islamic social law.

It will also be interesting to watch the U.S., France, and regional bodies debate intervention: will they really let an al-Qaeda aligned group control three airstrips and that much territory?

The Malian army will not be ready to handle the crisis any time soon.

I think this would be a wonderful opportunity for ECOWAS to show its teeth, but I have an awful feeling that France might end up wielding the stick.

By Conor Godfrey
I have the good fortune to be writing this from a stunning lodge in the town of Aguas Calientes just a few hundred meters below Machu Picchu.

For the last week Jim has led myself and 10 other souls on a trip through Peru and Bolivia that included a week in the dense jungles of the Amazon basin and a week in gorgeous Andean highlands of the former Quechua/Inca empire.

This is the second safari I have taken with Jim and Explorers World Travel (EWT), and the two experiences could not have been more different.

I thought I might compare the previous East Africa trip with this most recent experience for the benefit of anyone considering a guided trip.

Remember, these are simply my amateur comments as a consumer, and do not reflect the opinion of Jim or EWT. (Look here for the official descriptions.)

Most Safari goers are not professional botanists, anthropologists, geologists, or masters of some other sub-specialty that would skew their interests toward any one particular type of experience. (There is, however, a wonderful microbiologist on my current trip).

If you fall into the plurality of consumers that want a little natural history, some great flora and fauna, and luxury to wash it all down, then East Africa will meet and likely exceed your expectations.

On my East African safari spectacular game viewing was never more than twenty minutes away from any given lodge.

By the end of the Safari you might realistically be bored of elephants charging your car and giant crocs taking down wildebeest.

That being said, the emphasis in East Africa was squarely on the game viewing.

Amazonia and the Andean highlands offer a more holistic experience.

The variety of flora in the jungle is unparalleled, and your guides will bring each plant to life by tying it into the jungle tapestry – the fire tree hosts the fire ant, the papaya seeds kill stomach parasites, the giant termite nests provide homes for bats and birds, etc…

Both the jungle and the highlands also offer the more culture-minded traveler much food for thought.

I was shocked and intrigued by the cultural interplay between the mountains and the lowlands in Peru, and two short weeks were sufficient to give me a grounding in the Peruvian cultural dynamics.

Jim offers great cultural tidbits throughout the East African safari, but most of your mental energy will be devoted to understanding big cat behavior as opposed to delving into the East African cultural landscape.

The jungle is not deficient in charismatic game (especially not in birds), but it makes you work much harder to find it.

A fleeting glimpse of a Tapir, or, if you are lucky, a jaguar, will likely require a long trek through a humid jungle with mosquitoes nipping at any exposed skin and sweat soaking the ‘lightweight’ pants you bought before the trip.

If East Africa feels like a wild zoo, than the Amazon feels like a bona fide bush hunt.

The excitement does not come from overwhelming numbers of game, but from the thrill of tracking paw prints, listening to the Jungle, and using your newly learned jungle lore to track the elusive animals.

(There is still a cold beer at the end of your day to chase down the parasites you’ve acquired.)

This feeling extends to the jungle lodgings.

No amount of money is going to make your room totally impregnable to big spiders, or guarantee you hot water (as opposed to the opulent lodgings available in East Africa).

Trekking deep in the Amazon trades luxury for a unique learning experience; I think for some travelers the trade off would be well worth it.

My two cents: If you are unsure what you are looking for, and want to guarantee a fabulous, restorative vacation, go to East Africa with Jim.

The lodges and the big game will blow your mind.

If big game is not your end all and be all, or if luxury is not required for your personal brand of relaxation, then a joint Andes – Amazonia trip might be just the ticket.

Safari Njema!