Rwanda Archive

No More Grains of Rice

Susan Rice’s performance on the Sunday Talk Shows incorrectly explaining the Benghazi attacks is a perfect example of how she has historically allowed political considerations to trump more important foreign policy or human rights considerations in Africa. She’s been acting like this for years. She seems incapable of intricate analysis and quiet diplomacy. She’s no [...]

Better the Beast You Know

The second greatest conservation success story in my lifetime may be out of control. Mountain gorilla populations may be prospering because so are bribes and corruption. The first mountain gorilla trek I brokered was in June, 1979. At the time Dian Fossey reigned on Karisoke volcano with no aplomb and great madness. But science had [...]

Rwanda’s Choice: Gorillas or Guerillas

Rwanda is beginning to boil. Genocide is not in cards, but tourism is definitely jeopardized. Last month the UN issued a report clearly implicating Rwanda in the growing conflict in neighboring Congo. Western countries on the Security Council responded with reductions of aid and other sanctions, and the situation is growing tense. The mountain gorillas [...]

4 Comments

The End of the Gacaca Era

By Conor Godfrey Earlier this month the last of the Rwandan Gacaca (‘Lawn’) courts closed down. These communal tribunals, chaired by a council of elders in each community, have processed over 100,000 cases pertaining to the Rwandan genocide. Since 2001, almost all of the civilian cases have been heard in Gacaca courts, while the International [...]

Guided by a Child’s Remembrance

Clemantine Wamariya, a 23-year old Yale student and Tutsi who lived through the Rwandan genocide when she was 6 years old, has been appointed by President Obama to the board of the Holocaust Museum. Is this wise? Ms. Wamariya’s life is a fairy tale story, and I mean her no ill will. In time she [...]

5 Comments

Another Safari Ends

After a gala farewell dinner preceded by raucous limericks about the trip, the group began the journey home. Sarah Taylor summarized the trip during dinner, and I was impressed! From the surprise backstage visit to the Entebbe Zoo, through chimps and lions and gorillas, we covered much of Uganda and a bit of Rwanda. Of [...]

So Who’s Smarter?

Sixty-four people with broken legs and open wounds gather at Kinigi headquarters everyday to see 8 mountain gorilla families. We were no different. I love Parcs de volcans. I love the guides, the organization, the scenery, and most of all I love the artifice we guides bring to the daily planning session with the chief [...]

Long Trek into Rwanda

A new road was supposed to be completed from Bwindi into Rwanda by now, and so a year ago that’s how we planned the trip. Oops. When the new road is completed, it will be hardly a 4-hour journey from Bwindi to Parcs de volcans in Rwanda. In fact, it will be easier for people [...]

To the jungles of the Gorilla

As I leave for Africa to guide the Cleveland Zoo to see mountain gorillas, it’s worth repeating what a wonderful success story this is. When EWT sent its first tourist into Rwanda’s Parcs de volcans in 1979, there were less than 320 mountain gorillas, a dangerously low number. At the time scientists had determined that [...]

Victor & Still Champion

Rwanda’s national election occurs in 3 weeks. That has nothing to do with who will win. President Paul Kagame, the leader of Rwanda for the last 16 years, and prior to that, the paramount general of the Tutsi led RPF army that stopped the 1994 genocide, is the winner and champion. Kagame has imprisoned all [...]

Jiggedy-Jiggedy with the Gorillas!

The Cronan’s gorilla trek saw some jiggedy-jiggedy! We were staying at Virunga Lodge, the first luxury lodge opened near the park. Although not very near. It still takes about 40-50 minutes to drive to the park gate. Of course this pales in comparison to the earliest days when decent accommodation was 90 minutes away on [...]

1 Comment

Peace, Freedom, Tranquility, Ambition

Rwanda and Uganda, although distinctly East African, display very stark differences to Kenya and Tanzania. Today, we flew from Nairobi to Kigali, and from my point of view, it was entering a different world. There is no question that the economies of East African countries are inextricably linked – we passed a bus traveling from [...]

1 Comment

Defense means Racism?

It has been 15 years since the genocide in Rwanda, but tensions are building not lessening. The runup to the August elections doesn’t look good. I was in next-door Zaire when the genocide began. I have friends whose lives were severely effected by the genocide. My daughter and I with a couple close friends were [...]

1 Comment

France Apologizes, America’s Turn

Apologizing is hard and noble. It’s America’s turn. Today, France apologized to Rwanda for its actions that contributed to the Rwandan genocide of 1994. Like the Belgian Parliament’s historic apology to the Congo for its ancient king, Leopold, (which included substantial reparations) these are difficult and noble acts. “What happened here is unacceptable and …forces [...]